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The Needles (Custer State Park, Black Hills) Climbing: Two Summer Trips

The Needles (Custer State Park)

- 1st trip to the Needles: 1.5 days, 9 summits
- 2nd trip to the Needles: 2 days, 13 routes

Region: South Dakota
Elev: ~6,300 ft
Rock type: Granite & Pegmatite
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Date(s): July 31 & August 1, 2021 (Sat&Sun)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright
Trip Report 2:
Date(s): September 11&12, 2021 (Sat&Sun)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

The following excellent description is taken from an article in Alpinist 74 featuring the Needles of Custer State Park:

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of spires, minarets, pinnacles, pins, spears, castles, chisels, fins, steeples, blades, bartizans, gargoyles, battlements, turrets, towers, merlins, spikes, cathedrals, and freestanding blobs compose the Needles. The vast majority of climbs don't exceed a single rope length. None is taller than three pitches. But don't be fooled by the modest size. Or by the abundance of quartz and feldspar crystals that festoon the granite fairyland. The best routes were established with a ground-up traditional ethic, and the notoriously sparse protection and old-school ratings cause most climbers to expel a few more breaths than normal before they can commit to a Needles lead.

The following equally excellent description is written by Joey Wolfe on mountainproject:

Located in [Custer State Park] in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a climbing area like no other, The Needles. From Sylvan Lake a road called the Needles Highway winds through spectacular and spell binding towers and spires. From this road climbers can access a playground of unparalleled face climbing on ever narrowing spires by way of quartz crystals ranging from tiny to hand sized.

The area is steeped in a rich history dating back to Fitz Wiessner's accent of the Totem Pole in 1936. The area was then home to the prolific Herb and Jan Conn, two climbers way ahead of their time, who put up over 200 first ascents from their first visit in 1947 and eventually move to the area in 1949. In the 1960's climbers such as Royal Robbins, John Gill and Henry Barber put up routes that still wow climbers today with their high "pucker factor".

The Needles has long been known for its purist ethics, which has made for some wild climbs and a Needles' staple, the infamous simul-rap. As Jan Conn said, "You can climb anything in the Needles, if you have the guts."

Custer State Park is a world class destination not only for the climbing but also the absolute beauty of the place.

So, after reading excerpts such as these, obviously I had to check out the Black Hills Needles. The first time I climbed at the Black Hills Needles was in August 2021, at the start of a 10-day climbing trip that started in the Needles and from there meandered through a few climbing areas in Wyoming. Nate and I delighted in this granite fairyland and climbing playground. Nate and I returned a month later when his parents were camping at the Black Hills and invited us to come up for the weekend. We all enjoyed this trip so much that we repeated it the following year.

This page presents my trip reports for my two 2021 trips to the Black Hills Needles. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done in the Black Hills Needles.

Trip Reports

CLICK THE DROP DOWN TO SEE PHOTOS FROM EACH TRIP

Intro

To start off our 2-week climbing road trip to Wyoming, Nate and I decided to check out the Needles. We arrived mid-day, and after getting situated at the campground, we spent the afternoon doing the Cathedral Enchainment, which is a great linkup with nearly 400 feet of 5.7 climbing and three wild summits. The routes we took to get to the three summits were all FAs in the 1940s by climbing pioneers Herb and Jan Conn. The enchainment traverses up the Spire 4 ridge line, starting with West Gruesome, then up and over South Tower, and to the top of Spire 4, the highest summit of the Cathedral Spires.

The second day, we climbed in the Switchbacks/Tenpins area. We climbed 7 different routes to the top of 6 different wild summits. The routes ranged from 5.7 to 5.11a, mostly face climbing, and all a touch exciting yet reasonably well-protected with the runnout occurring on moderate terrain. Overall, Nate and I thought the rock was quite good and the climbing was quite unique. We had a blast in this granite fairyland and climbing playground.

Below are some photos from our 1.5 days of climbing at the Black Hills Needles, as well as a brief stop at Mt. Rushmore National Memorial on our drive to Devil's Tower. Enjoy!

    Photos


    More climbing fun!
    More climbing fun!
    Date: July 31 (Sat)
    Partner: Nate Arganbright
    Climbed at: Cathedral Spires

    Day 1: Cathedral Enchainment: West Gruesome + Second Tower (Conn Route) + Spire 4 (5.8, 3-5p, 3 summits) 

    Overlay for Cathedral Spires Enchainment (5.8, 3-5p) we did on Day 1.
    Needles Eye, seen from the road on the drive to the Cathedral Spires area.
    Needles Eye Tunnel on the drive to the Cathedral Spires area.
    Cathedral Spires.
    Approach gully for Cathedral Enchainment (5.8, 3-5p).
    Approach gully for Cathedral Enchainment (5.8, 3-5p).
    5.7 step in approach gully for Cathedral Enchainment (5.8, 3-5p).
    Starting up West Gruesome (5.7, 1-2p), the first of the three towers of the enchainment.
    Chimney on West Gruesome (5.7, 1-2p).
    Higher up on West Gruesome (5.7, 1-2p).
    Summit register on West Gruesome (5.7, 1-2p).
    Belay at notch between West Gruesome and Second Tower.
    Exposed step across at start of the Second Tower Conn Route (5.8, 1-2p), the second of the three towers on the enchainment.
    Exposed step across at start of the Second Tower Conn Route (5.8, 1-2p).
    Looking up the Second Tower Conn Route (5.8, 1-2p).
    Higher up on the Second Tower Conn Route (5.8, 1-2p).
    Old piton on the Second Tower Conn Route (5.8, 1-2p).
    Old bolt on the Second Tower Conn Route (5.8, 1-2p).
    Rappelling from top of Second Tower to notch between Second Tower and Spire 4.
    Moderate climbing on Spire 4 (5.7, 1p).
    Nate nearing the top of Spire 4 (5.7, 1p), just before the final 5.7 step across.
    View.
    View. Looks like there is a lot of great hiking to be done in Custer State Park. It's a pretty cool area.
    Rappelling from Spire 4.
    Downclimbing the gully to get back to packs at base of route. You have to downclimb the 5.7 step, and all else is 3rd and 4th.
    Giant quartz crystals.
    A view back at the Cathedral Spires.
    We camped at Fort Welikit, a 15 minute drive from the entrance to Custer State Park.
    Evening trip-reporting and reading by the campfire. We like it here!

    More climbing fun!
    More climbing fun!
    Date: August 1 (Sun)
    Partner: Nate Arganbright
    Climbed at: Switchbacks/Tenpins

    Day 2: 7 routes and 6 wild summits (5.7-5.11a, 7 pitches)

    Silhouette of Nate leading our first route of the day, Dave's Dinghy (5.10b).
    Nearing top of Dave's Dinghy (5.10b).
    Piton on Dave's Dinghy (5.10b).
    Another piton on Dave's Dinghy (5.10b).
    Rap chains on top of Dave's Dinghy (5.10b).
    Nate leading our second route of the day, Loss of Sensation (5.10), a nice sport route.
    Definition of roadside cragging.
    Definition of roadside cragging.
    We climbed the classic Tricouni Nail (5.7), which ascends the right-hand spire in the photo.
    Nate leading Tricouni Nail (5.7).
    Nearing top of Tricouni Nail (5.7).
    Piton on Tricouni Nail (5.7).
    Old bolt on Tricouni Nail (5.7).
    The top anchor for Tricouni Nail (5.7) is slinging the summit. Rope management by Nate.
    Rapping from the top of Tricouni Nail (5.7). The alternative is a counterweight rappel, but we didn't want to put too much wear on the new rope by pulling it over the rough rock. Best to have a beater rope for a counterweight rappel.
    View from the Tenpins area.
    View down from the Tenpins area from the top of Tricouni Nail. Superpin and Tent Peg (we climbed Tent Peg as our last spire of the day) below.
    Cathedral Spires as seen from the Tenpins area.
    Butterfly on rope.
    Butterfly on rope.
    I led Dakota-Illinois (5.9), which climbs the wide crack system.
    If there are sticktights, Steph will somehow walk through them.
    Tent Peg (5.7), our final route and sixth summit of the day.
    Wide crack at start of Tent Peg (5.7).
    Nate at the top of Tent Peg (5.7).
    Dinner. Cheese dip is the Summer 2021 favorite.
    Date: August 2 (Mon)

    Mt. Rushmore National Memorial

    Stopped on the drive to Devil's Tower.
    Four-year-old me and my 3-year old sister Jenny at Mt. Rushmore National Memorial, on our move from Israel to Ohio in August 1987. We were driving across the country from my grandpa's place in Washington.
    Eight years later, again at Mt. Rushmore, on our move from Indiana to British Columbia in June 1995.
    Thirty-four years after my first visit to Mt. Rushmore.
    Approaching the presidential faces. Ten years of redevelopment work culminated with the completion of extensive visitor facilities and sidewalks in 1998.
    Mount Rushmore with the sculpted heads of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln (left to right)
    Zoomed in.
    Zoomed in on Roosevelt and Lincoln. Note the detail even down to the carving out of the sparkles in the eyes.
    A sign of the times.

    Intro

    It was Nate's birthday weekend. His parents were camping in the Black Hills area and invited us to join for the weekend. Of course!

    We climbed for the weekend at the Black Hills Needles. One of the highlights was climbing Needles Eye, an iconic classic that had first made me aware of the Needles (and we liked it so much we climbed it twice!). On Sunday, we enjoyed pizza and campfire and good company for Nate's birthday dinner. Before driving home Monday, we checked out Mt. Rushmore National Memorial with Nate's parents.

    The following gives some photos from our 2 days of climbing and camping at the Black Hills Needles. Enjoy!

      Photos


      More climbing fun!
      More climbing fun!
      Date: September 11 (Sat)
      Partner: Nate Arganbright
      Climbed at: Sylvan Lake area

      Day 1: 6 routes (5.6-5.11a)

      Signs at entrance to Custer State Park. This is a State Park, so a National Park Pass does not work. $20 for 7 days or $38 for annual pass.
      Sylvan Lake.
      Inner Outlet area at Sylvan Lake.
      Nate starting up Kamps Crack (aka Classic Crack) (5.8) at Inner Outlet area. This is one of the must-do routes in the Needles.
      Bolted anchor.
      Looking up Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6) at Inner Outlet area, an entertaining route up an exposed arete with pegmatite crystal holds.
      Nate climbing Lander Turkey Shoot (5.6) at Inner Outlet area.
      Nate starting up Two Year Plan (5.11a) at Inner Outlet. We thought this was a 5.9 route due to a guidebook error ("that seemed hard for 5.9!") but later discovered it was 5.11a.
      Bolt on Two Year Plan (5.11a).
      Nice face climbing on Two Year Plan (5.11a).
      A cool feature at Outer Outlet area.
      Needles view.
      Old stone structure at Sylvan Lake.
      We had planned on car camping, but Nate's parents got us cabin at Buffalo Ridge Camp Resort in Custer, where they are also staying. Thanks Greg and Cheryl! This place was very cozy!
      vening around the campfire with Nate's parents Greg and Cheryl and family friends Rick and Rhonda Gentosi.
      The whiskey selection. The Whicked Pickle whiskey was bought out of sheer curiosity (the general consensus was surprise that it was "not horrible" but definitely not a favorite.
      Couldn't resist adding in a photo of Hattie, Rick and Rhonda's cute dog. I think I have a new friend.

      More climbing fun!
      More climbing fun!
      Date: September 12 (Sun)
      Partner: Nate Arganbright
      Climbed at: Needles Eye area

      Day 2: 7 routes (5.5-5.8, 7 summits)

      Our first route of the day was Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye. A must do classic!
      Our first route of the day was Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye. A must do classic!
      Nate staring up the chimney at the start of Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye.
      Nate in the eye of the needle on Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye.
      Photo taken while climbing (following) through the eye of the needle on Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye.
      A view down while following Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye. This is about as roadside as it gets.
      There are two protection bolts on this route, exiting the eye of the needle.
      At the anchor at the top of the route on Threading The Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye. The route does not quite go all the way to the top of the tower.
      Lots of summits at the Needles.
      Lots of summits at the Needles.
      Nate on the step-across on Moonlight Rib (5.6).
      Looking up the exposed upper arete of Moonlight Rib (5.6). Another must-do Needles moderate route to summit.
      View of my shadow from the exposed upper arete of Moonlight Rib (5.6).
      Nate leading the exposed arete of Holey Terror (5.7). Mostly exposed 4th with one section of 5.7 protected by a beefy bolt.
      Looking down while following Holey Terror (5.7).
      Some real famous people have summited Holey Terror (5.7). Tom Cruise (who cruised it), ...
      ....Nicholas Cage (who said "it was all the rage"), ...
      ...Dolph Lungren (says it was grungy), ...
      ...Donald Trump, Bernie Sanders, and Sarah Palin, ...
      ...and Donald Trump again (required tension to get up).
      Nate measuring the distance to the first bolt (16 feet) on the 5.10 route up Needles Eye. You can get a small can in below this though. We did not climb this route since it seemed a bit sparse for protection for the grade.
      Looking up Hitching Post (5.5). Mostly 4th with a 5.5 move protected with a cam. Another summit!
      Nate rappelling off Hitching Post. This is as roadside as it gets.
      The Tunnel at The Needles Eye area.
      Nate staring up Moraine Spire (5.8). Another awesome spire summit
      Nate higher up on Moraine Spire (5.8).
      Maybe he actually did.
      Threading the Needle on Needle’s Eye 5.8
      Threading the Needle on Needle’s Eye 5.8
      Threading the Needle (5.8). Photo by Cheryl Arganbright.
      Threading the Needle (5.8). Photo by Cheryl Arganbright.
      Our rack for Threading the Needle (5.8) on Needle's Eye. No need to bring more. Yet the climbing feels secure and well-protected for the most part.
      Bloody Spire (5.8). Another roadside spire with fun climbing.
      Nate starting up Bloody Spire (5.8).
      Nate leading Bloody Spire (5.8). A cheering section is beginning to congregate. Photo by Cheryl Arganbright.
      Steph on Bloody Spire (5.8). Photo by Cheryl Arganbright.
      Old piton on Bloody Spire (5.8).
      The cheering section from below.
      Someone left a nice surprise at the base of the rappels.
      A storefront sign in Custer, South Dakota. This is definitely no Boulder, Colorado.
      The price of gas is getting kind of high these days.

      List of Climbs I've done in the Needles (Custer State Park)

      LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

      Previous and Next Adventures

      Trip Report 1

      The Diamond (Yellow Wall + Forrest Finish), CO
      Devils Tower, WY

      Trip Report 2

      The Diamond (Casual Route), CO
      Lumpy Ridge: Bookmark Pinnacle (E Side), CO

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