Intro

Ancient Art, the first major formation encountered on the trail to the main Fisher Towers area, is a grotesque three-summited tower. The classic Stolen Chimney Route ascends the south side of the tower. Interesting climbing, good protection, some mud and choss, and lots of exposure.

I had wanted to climb this before it fell over. Finally, I got my chance, at the end of a 12-day Thanksgiving+ trip to the Creek, our last route before driving home to Estes Park / Boulder. I led the entire route, since Nate had already climbed it twice before. The entire adventure took about 3 and a half , a perfect short climb before driving home. What a fun way to finish the trip. Thanks Nate for climbing it a third time!

This page gives a route overlay and pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Times

Begin approach: 10:09 am
Base of route: 10:41 am
Start climbing: 11:03 am
Top of Ancient Art Steph: 12:27 pm
Top of Ancient Art Nate: 12:48 pm
Begin rappelling: 12:57 pm
Base of rappels: 1:07 pm
Back to car: 1:45 pm

Splits

Approach: 32 min
Climb route: 1:24
Rappel: 10 min
Total time: 3:36

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

From the Fisher Towers parking lot at the end of the road, folllow the Fisher Towers trail south through a series of shallow canyons and directly below Ancient Art's intimidating southwest face. Continue past the face to a ridge above the canyon. Hike left up a good trail that passes beneath the fallen Cobra. Continue up to the right and then traverse left acoss a bench to the broken rock below a prominent chimney on Ancient Art's south face.

Pitch 1a&b

5.10 or 5.7 A0, 120'

Climb straight up (5.7) using face holds and a short hand crack to the base of a groove. Optional belay here before a 5.10 section. Pinch pebbles and cobbles (5.10 or A0) past four drilled angles to a 2-bolt belay.

Pitch 2

5.8, 120'

Climb the well-protected mud chimney (5.8) to a 3-bolt belay ledge on the right.

Pitch 3

5.10+ or 5.8 A0, 40'

Climb onto a block and face climb up a ridge (5.10+ or A0) with three bolts to a 3-bolt belay.

Pitch 4

5.8, 60'

Walk or crawl across The Sidewalk, an exposed ridge, to the Diving Board, a jutting sandstone tongue. Mantle onto it (5.8), then grab good holds (5.8) to a sling anchor on the corkscrew summit.

Top

Woo hoo!

Descent

Three rappels

Lower from the summit and travere back across The Sidewalk to a 3-bolt anchor. Rappel 1: Single-rope rappel to anchors atop Pitch 2. Rappel 2: Single-rope rappel to anchors atop Pitch 1. Rappel 3: Single-rope rappel to the ground. (You can also do a double-rope rappel from the top of Pitch 2 to avoid rapping through parties lower on the route.)

Previous and Next Adventures

Moses (Primrose Dihedrals), UT

Cragging in Eldorado Canyon, CO

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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www.StephAbegg.com

Ancient Art, Stolen Chimney (5.10+ or 5.8 A0, 4-5p)

Ancient Art

Route:

Stolen Chimney

5.10+ or 5.8 A0, 4-5p

A super fun novelty route and a fun finish to a 12-day Thanksgiving+ trip.

Route Overlay

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