Intro

Iron Messiah (5.10, 6p) follows a large left-facing corner system on the left side of The Spearhead, easily scoped from the vicinity of the Zion Lodge. The route has a bit of everything but is characterized by featured chimney and corner climbing.

It was a cool, cloudy day with temperatures in the low 40s. We had hoped for sun, but with the clouds hanging in we decided to go for it anyway. I was feeling pretty chilled, but the climbing was fun and Geoff was happy to take the sharp end. The route is engaging throughout, with a few heads-up sections (namely the Pitch 5 chimney—best to be a comfortable 5.10 leader for this pitch). The final varnished corner of Pitch 6 was our favorite pitch of the day. We climbed the route from base to top of Pitch 6 in about 3 and a half hours.

Most belays were bolted (except the top of Pitch 2) with pounded pitons. The descent requires two ropes, so we led on a single 70 and tagged a 6mm tagline.

Judging by the number of stuck rope fragments, a chalkbag forever wedged in a crack covered in pine needles, various dropped items deep in the bowels of the chimney, and even a lost knife and a few other presents we found, this route seems the scene of some epics. But with careful rappelling—such as using the dedicated rap anchor outside the corner—a portion of these epics seems avoidable.

Overall, it’s a great half-day free multipitch 5.10 in Zion, following an obvious and aesthetic feature with plenty of enjoyable climbing. Thanks to Geoff for another great day out in Zion!

This page includes an overlay, time stats, rack info, and pitch-by-pitch photos. Enjoy!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

From the Grotto picnic area, cross the river on the Angel's Landing hiking trail. After about 100', take the left fork, toward Emerald Pools.

The trail quickly gains one or two hundred feet of elevation, then levels off. At this point, you are pretty close to the base of Spearhead. Continue on the trail until below the start of your route, then look for an existing climbers trail or a convenient drainage.

Total time from picnic area to base of wall is about 15 minutes.

Approach Pitches

4th, ~300 feet

The first 300 feet of the route are comprised of a right-leaning, left-facing corner and ramp system. This section can be soloed, but it is exposed so a rope could be deemed appropriate.

Pitch 1

5.9

Bolted face just right of a right-facing corner.

Pitch 2

5.9

Double cracks in the left wall of a huge right-facing corner.

Pitch 3

5.10

The original route climbs up a crack to the left for a pitch and pendulums back into the chimney/corner.

However, most parties climb the Aluminum Messiah variation (5.10), which skips the pendulum, and is probably not really considered a variation anymore. You'll want to traverse right on a foot rail and climb a thin crack that leads you directly into the obvious left-facing corner that comprises the rest of the route.

Pitch 4

5.9

Continue up the chimney and corner system.

Pitch 5

5.10-

Continue up the chimney and corner system.

Pitch 6

5.10

Incredible varnished corner.

To Top

5.10

Most parties stop at the top of the main dihedral system at the top of Pitch 6. However, it is possible to climb to the top of the Spearhead via some reportedly run-out 5.10 climbing.

Descent

Rappel with 2 ropes

Rap the route with two ropes. Double rope raps to the top of Pitch 3, then use a single 70m rope for the final three raps.

Make sure to use the rappel anchor on the face just left and below the Pitch 4 anchor. This helps keep the rope out of the chimney. There is evidence of previous stuck ropes.

(If rappelling from the summit, bolts can be found 50' climber's left of the top out. One 70m diagonal rappel can get you down to the base of the final pitch, from there you'll need to walk back down to the next anchor. This can be avoided by rappelling with two ropes.)