Intro
The Watchman is the beautiful, often-photographed formation guarding the south entrance to Zion National Park. Its impressive west face—nearly half a mile wide—is split by vertical cracks, corners, pillars, and chimneys. Rising 1,000–1,500 feet, the face hosts at least 15 established routes, several of which climb bottom to top. Bolts are scarce, and most routes rely almost entirely on natural protection.
The Silmaril (5.12a or 5.11 C1 or 5.12+, 9-10 pitches) is one of those seldom-climbed Zion routes that delivers exceptional quality: no crowds, no fixed gear or bolted belays, just sustained, beautiful crack climbing with solid ledges at nearly every stance. Of course there are a few less-stellar sections—par for the course—but the quality pitches more than make up for it. Much of the climbing feels reminiscent of Indian Creek. Originally established as an aid route, the original A2 pitch has since been freed at 5.12+. A three-pitch free variation just left of the original line climbs an excellent corner system before rejoining the main route. The climbing is mostly in the 5.10–5.11 range, with a short but easily C1-able 5.12a crux right off the ground.
Sean and I climbed Silmaril on the first day of winter 2025. The route is largely shaded this time of year, and even when the sun does hit the wall, the features provide plenty of protection from direct exposure. Temperatures were unseasonably warm for winter—mid-50s—so we stayed comfortable throughout the day. We chose to climb the three-pitch free variation to the left of the original line.
We climbed in fix-and-follow style and hauled a pack with extra layers, food, water, and cams. While it was convenient to stash shoes and extra gear, the hauling proved annoying; the bag frequently got stuck and required the follower to free it. I led the first block (Pitches 1–6), and Sean took over for Pitches 7–10. For me, the squeeze chimney on Pitch 1 and the bombay on Pitch 7 were the most challenging sections. The #5 was useful on just about every pitch. We both enjoyed this route.
With sunrise at 7:43 a.m. and sunset at 5:18 p.m., it was the shortest day of the year, yet we only did small portions of the approach and descent in the dark. The entire climb—and most of the somewhat complicated descent back to the base—was completed in daylight. We topped out just after 3 p.m. The descent required some route-finding, but once we located the rappels, it was straightforward.
This page includes a route overlay, time statistics, a GPS track of the approach, a rack description, and pitch-by-pitch photos of the climb.
