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Touchstone Wall (5.10 C2 or 5.11 C1, 8p), Cerberus Gendarme

Cerberus Gendarme

Route:

Touchstone Wall

5.10 C1 or 5.11 C1, 9p

Touchstone is an excellent adventure and one of the greatest big walls of all time.

Region: Utah
Elev: ~4,800 ft
Rock: Navajo sandstone
Mode: 
Date(s): December 11, 2025 (Thu)
Partner(s): Chris Cox

Related trip reports:

Route Overlay

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Intro

Touchstone Wall is one of Zion's classic routes. It is a beautiful, sunny line. Its straight-in splitters attract climbers of all abilities. The first two pitches go at C1 (with a bolt ladder on Pitch 1), Pitch 3 is 5.11, and the remainder of the route trends 5.8–5.10. In general, Touchstone gets easier—and the pitches go faster—the higher you get.

My friend from Washington, Chris Cox, was in town, and we’d planned to team up for a stretch. We’d started our trip in Red Rocks and then decided to head to Zion, where sunny splitters abounded and the crowds didn’t. Our first route of the trip was Touchstone Wall. Chris had climbed it a decade prior but was happy to repeat it.

I led the first two aid pitches, which I always find fun. Each took about an hour (aid isn't fast). The sun hit us at the top of Pitch 2, just before 10 a.m. Chris took over for Pitches 3 to 6: Pitch 3 is the technical crux, with a 5.11 fingers-to-hands splitter. The rest of his block was full of enjoyable 5.8–5.10c crack climbing. We climbed in fix-and-follow style, so block leading worked well. I took the final block—Pitches 7 to 9—to the top. This included a 5.10b fist section, a 5.8 slot (the topo called it “short and no fun,” but I would remove the “no”), a wild piton-bolted 5.7 face, and then an easy romp to the summit. We enjoyed the 360° view. The route took us 6 and a half hours to climb, at a casual pace.

The rappels were quick—less than an hour—and uneventful aside from briefly catching the rope in a tree and getting a knot stuck in a crack, both easily resolved.

It was a spectacular day in Zion: T-shirts, sunshine, and not another party on the route—or seemingly anywhere. The park roads were open to cars (the shuttle doesn’t typically run in December), so we had a steady parade of tourists below, some of whom spotted us and enjoyed watching the ascent.

This page includes a route overlay, time stats, a rack description, and pitch-by-pitch photos from the day. What a day it was!

Time Stats

Times
Leave Big Bend parking: 6:50 am
Arrive at base of route: 7:00 am
Start climbing: 7:28 am
Top of route: 1:58 pm
Summit: 2:12 pm
Start rappels: 2:23 pm
Base of route: 3:11 pm
Arrive back at Big Bend parking: 3:37 pm
Splits
Approach: 10 min
Climb route: 6 hours 30 minutes
Rappel route: 48 min 
Total car-to-car: 8 hours 47 minutes

Rack

The rack we brought is the one I’d use again. All sizes are BD.
- triples 0.2-0.75 (making one set offsets is nice for pin scars on Pitches 1-3)
- double 1-3
- single 4
- Single set of offset nuts (nice for Pitches 2&3)
- Six alpine draws, six quickdraws
Leave the aid gear at the top of Pitch 2 or 3 (depending on if you free or aid Pitch 3). Keep the 3s and 4s in the bag until Pitch 5.
We also had:
- 70m 8.9 lead line
- follower pack
- set of aiders for leader on Pitches 1&2
- set of jumars + easy-aiders for follower on Pitches 1&2
- fix-and-follow setup for the free portion of the route

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Take the shuttle or drive to the Big Bend stop (as for Prodigal Sun, Moonlight Buttress). The Cerberus Gendarme lies directly across the river from Moonlight Buttress. From the shuttle stop, backtrack the road for a couple hundred yards to the climbers' access trail. Look for the posted trail markers and please use them as to prevent unnecessary erosion! Approach time: 5-10 minutes.

Pitch 6

5.9

Descent

Rappel the route
Rappel the route. You can do it with a single 70. Watch your ends.

There is also another descent option to rap the hanging canyon to the climber's right of the route and forms the right side of the Cerebus Gendarme formation. The last couple of rappel anchors can be seen while climbing up the route. This is a lengthy canyoneering adventure that involves lots of rappelling and scrambling. It is easier to rappel the route.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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