 | 6:30am. Now that's dedication!
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 | From our high camp, it was an easy traverse to the Col of the Wild between the Moxes. Apparently this slope is onerous scree in later summer. |
 | The Col of the Wild between the spires.
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 | From near the col between the Twin Spires, ascend obliquely S on ledges c. 200 ft towards the Ridge of the Gendarmes. (Photo by Brian Walkenhauer.) |
 | Ascending obliquely S on ledges towards the Ridge of the Gendarmes. Nothing is solid on this peak, so we tested every hold.
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 | After ascending a major E-W gully, we encountered a 10-ft vertical step. This was an easy boulder problem. (Photo by Brian Walkenhauer, taken on the descent.) |
 | Next we headed up Class 3 terrain toward the most prominent notch in the Ridge of the Gendarmes.
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(image removed, replaced with non-overlay) | From the notch is a good view of the massive summit tower. The annotated photo on the left shows the general route. In general, we found the route to be pretty straightforward. In short: "Ascend the gully that is just below the W walls of the spire. From the top of the gully follow the ridge to the summit. Never more than 5.5. Descend route with 3 single-rope rappels." IMAGE REMOVAL: I removed the route overlay image (and replaced it with just the photo without the overlay) to respect those who felt I was giving away too much route information. I agree, there are some routes that derive their character because of the allure of the unknown. This is one of those routes.
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 | From the notch in the Ridge of the Gendarmes, the route description calls for working obliquely down and E towards a snow-filled gully.
Descend the gully to a ledge that puts one at the base of two additional
SE-trending gullies from the ridge. |
(image removed) | It seems that when parties get off route, it is often because they do not find the correct gully. Basically, the correct gully is the one furthest right, against the western walls of the spire. Ascend the 4th (then 3rd) class gully to a notch beyond the last pinnacle on the Ridge at the base of the Spire's W face. (Note: On the descent we took a slightly lower route on the section before where the dotted line meets the solid line.) IMAGE REMOVAL: Image removed to make the route more fun. See note above.
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 | Even though we were in the correct gully, we still encountered some terrain that was definitely not 3rd or 4th. We were able to work around right and get on easier terrain. (The gully in the photo is NOT the one we went up. We descended a bit and went up to the right from here onto 4th class terrain.)
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 | Looking up the gully to the notch in the ridge at the base of the Spire's W face.
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 | Towering pinnacles as seem from the base of the Spire's W face.
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 | The first pitch involves a short right traverse (5.5) and then climbing loose 4th class rock for 80'.
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 | Belay at the top of Pitch 1, at the "detached white column." The column was indeed somewhat detached (as is every rock on this route), but ti was less white than I had envisioned. |
 | The second pitch involves about 140' of rotten-looking 5.2 rock, roughly staying on the ridge crest.
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 | The third pitch continues on the crest, mostly class 4. From the top is an easy step/scramble to the summit.
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 | On the summit of SE Mox! 5.5 hours from high camp or 4 hours from Col of the Wild. We relaxed on the summit for a good hour. |
 | The summit register on SE Mox has photocopies of the original register. First ascent by Fred and Helmy Beckey on June 22, 1941. (Fred was born in January 1923, so this would have made him 18 at the time. Helmy was even younger.) It was not again climbed for several years after. (Note Beckey's mention of "Glacier Peak" in the register, which was the name for Mt. Spickard at the time.) Also, according to the register, Brian and I were the 36th party to reach the summit of SE Mox. We noticed that at least a handful of crazy souls had climbed Mox twice, so perhaps about 60 people and one tiny stuffed goat have stood on that summit. |
 | Looking over at the top of Lemolo, aka "Hardest Mox." (Photo by Brian Walkenhauer.) |
 | Safety in numbers I suppose. Assuming the boulder is securely attached to the mountain, which is not a given on SE Mox....
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 | Brian rappelling the final pitch to the notch. We downclimbed the gully from there, figuring that would be safer than playing Rope Pull Russian Roulette.
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 | The final traverse back to camp. The climb took us 8.5 hours round trip from camp, or 6 hours round trip from the Col of the Wild between the spires (which happens to also be the time given in the Cascade Alpine Guide).
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 | Unclimbed (?) buttress on a crag west of NW Mox.
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 | Yum!
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 | Enjoying an alpenglow show on the Moxes.
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 | Headlight fun. (Exposure: 2 min, f/7.1, IS0 400)
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 | Glowing tent and moonlit night. (Exposure: 3 min, f/7.1, IS0 400) |