It was the weekend before spring quarter final exams at UW. I study better under a time crunch, so my friend Sara and I headed up to climb Serpentine Arête (5.8) on Dragontail.
We climbed the route in a day from the car. We left the Stuart Lake trailhead at 4:30am, got to Colchuck Lake by 6:30am, were climbing the rock by 8:30am, summited at 2pm, made it back to the lake at 4:45pm, were back to the car by 6:45pm, and were back to Seattle by 10pm. Time to study!
We simulclimbed most of the route, and had a blast. Here are some photos and brief descriptions for this trip report.
Update: I climbed Dragontail again in 2017 via Dragons of Eden (5.12a, 650') + NE Buttress (4th to 5.7, 1600 additional feet).
Photos
 | Looking up the route from the base. We started just right of the orange slabs at the top of the terminal morraine above Colchuck Lake. |
 | The first pitch, short 5.7ish pitch to get to class 3 ramps. |
 | Easy scrambling for much of the route. |
 | Sara leading the first of the 2 "crux" pitches mid-route, a 5.8 crack. These were our 2 favorite pitches, we wished there could be more of this kind of climbing! |
 | Sara following the second of the 2 "crux" pitches mid-route, a 5.8 dihedral. These were our 2 favorite pitches, we wished there could be more of this kind of climbing! |
 | Most of the second half of the climb involved fun 3rd to mid-5th class climbing up the arête. There were several possible variations. |
 | We spotted a Mountaineer party heading up to Colchuck Col. I decided to make the route look more impressive by rotating the photo.... |
 | A piton, perhaps from the original ascent of Serpentine Arête in 1973. |
 | The view of Colchuck Col from our climb. |
 | The view south from the summit. |
 | The view of Colchuck (and Stuart behind) from the summit. |
 | Early summer snow in the Upper Enchantment Lake Basin on the descent down the back of Dragontail and down Aasgard Pass (a walk-off, although Aasgard Pass never fails to be uncomfortable on the knees). |
 | The last of the winter ice on Colchuck Lake. |
 | I can never resist taking photos of chipmunks. |