Route Overview |
(Some of the following description is from the Summitpost description of Eldorado.) Road and trailhead: Route to high camp: At 4000ft or so, you'll find a talus field (blissfully snowcovered in the winter). This field connects to a second larger field traversing up and right beneath a large and imposing granite arm (which turns into the Roush Creek - Eldorado Creek Ridge). Head up to small waterfalls at 5000ft and a steep muddy trail leads through the falls to something of an opening at 5400ft. Camp at 5400 ft or continue upwards. Continue up heather and rock slabs (or snow in early season or winter) until able to climb that same ridge around 6000ft or so. At 6150ft - where the ridge steepens - descend left into a class 3 gully into Roush Basin. The gully is marked by a large boulder just below the ridge crest. Do not descend the wrong gully - a number look promising - because they are down-slabby and nasty compared to the RIGHT one. Once in Roush Basin, head towards the SE edge of the Eldorado Glacier. Snow slopes lead to a large flat saddle at 7500ft. There are good bivy sites here, or at a rock island at 7800ft at the base of Eldorado's East Ridge. Pitch a tent, melt some water, and cook some grub. You have finally arrived, 7-10 hours from the parking lot. Masochists find this approach to be one of the highlights of the North Cascades! Always worth it! Note that the Sibley Creek approach is another alternative. I've done this approach back in 2006 (click here for that trip report), and highly recommend it. It is not as direct as the Eldorado Creek Route, but it follows a beautiful and non-strenuous ridgeline speckled with flowers in the summer. Route to summit: |
Okay, now for some photos from a wintertime snowshoe/climb/overnight of Eldorado!