Devil’s Tower Climbing: Two Summer Trips

Devil's Tower Climbing 2014-present

- 1st trip to Devil's Tower: 8 climbs and once to the summit
- 2nd trip to Devil's Tower: 3 half days of climbing endless splitters

Region: Wyoming
Elev: 5,112 ft (top of tower)
Rock type: Phonolite porphyry
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Date(s): July 29-August 1, 2014
Partner(s): Eric Schweitzer
Trip Report 2:
Date(s): August 2-4, 2021
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Devils Tower crams a high concentration of great cracks into the smallest area possible. People come from around the world to climb on this unique wonder. Climbing is sustained, and cracks are beautiful and uniformly shaped. Essentially, there is a crack every 5 or 10 feet, and they mostly run perfectly up and down, which reduces rope drag. The majority of the tower is less than vertical, and faces are blank. There are few face climbs, but who needs them with all these splitter cracks?

The first time I climbed at Devil's Tower was in July 2014, on an impromptu trip when the weather forecast didn't look great for our planned trip to the Cirque of the Towers. We climbed for three days.

The second time I climbed at Devil's Tower was in August 2021, on a 10-day climbing road trip beginning in the Black Hills Needles of South Dakota and continuing through few climbing areas in Wyoming. As on my previous visit to the Tower, we climbed for three days at Devil's Tower.

This page presents my trip reports for my two trips to Devil's Tower. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done at Devil's Tower.

Route Overlay for One Way Sunset (July 2014)

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Trip Reports

CLICK THE DROP DOWN TO SEE PHOTOS FROM EACH TRIP

Intro

A recent week-long climbing trip to the Cirque of the Towers inspired me to want to climb in the nearby Deep Lake area, an area that is less crowded than the Cirque but apparently has just as good of climbing. So I made a post on mountainproject.com looking for a partner. Eric responded to my post, and we made plans to meet at the trailhead a few days later. But an unforeseen wave of never-ending thundershowers settled in over the Wind River Range and thwarted our plans (the dismal NOAA forecast). So where to go? I tossed out the idea of Devil's Tower, a climbing destination I had always wanted to check out. Devil's Tower was about 7 hours drive further east, and the weather looked great there. A little hot perhaps, but we figured we could chase the shade around the Tower and be fine. So to Devil's Tower we went.

We hung out at Devil's Tower for 4 days, climbing 3 of these days and photographing prairie dogs on the other day. I was impressed with the quality of the climbing on the Tower. The cracks are splitter, the rock is textured, and the pitches are long and steep and the grades are by no means soft. Many of the routes go to the top (or at least close to the top) of the Tower, but the rock quality is best on the lower half of the routes. So after climbing to the top on our first day (via One Way Sunset, a great 5-pitch 5.10c route), we spent the rest of our days cragging on the lower pitches of various classic routes.

This page provides a trip report for our impromptu trip to Devil's Tower.

Some Random Cool Facts About Devil's Tower
  • Geologic History: About 50 million years ago molten magma was forced into sedimentary rocks above it and cooled underground. As hot, molten lava cools and solidifies it shrinks in volume and fractures along vertical planes, with geometric considerations often orienting the fractures into five- or six-sided polygons. Over millions of years erosion exposed Devil's Tower.
  • Size: The Tower rises 867 feet from its base. The diameter of its base is 1,000 feet. An interesting question is: How many vertical columns are there along the Tower's circumference? I could find no statistic that answered this question, but Eric and I estimated there are somewhere between 150-200 columns. I could do a photo analysis but it would be tedious.
  • Climbing Routes: Devil's Tower crams a high concentration of great cracks into the smallest area possible. Essentially, there is a beautiful crack every 5 or 10 feet, and they mostly run perfectly up and down. The climbs are long and sustained; many pitches are 165-190 feet long. The rock quality is excellent up until the last 100 feet of the tower or so, so many routes are best done by climbing the first 2-3 pitches and then rappelling. Fixed anchors are numerous. The easiest / most popular route up Devil's Tower is Durrance, which is located on the South Face of the Tower and is rated at 5.6 (some guidebooks rate it at 5.8 in which case it is not the easiest route, but in either case it is the most popular route on the Tower). Climbing on the west and north faces tends to be steeper and harder, ranging from 5.8 all the way up to 5.13 and more. In general, climbs that are 5.8 and under tend to be offwidths, 5.9 are hand cracks, and 5.10 are finger cracks.
  • First Ascent: The first known ascent of Devil's Tower by any method took place on July 4, 1893, and is accredited to William Rogers and Willard Ripley, local ranchers in the area. They completed this first ascent after constructing a ladder of wooden pegs driven into cracks in the rock face on the southeast side of the Tower (just right of the Bon Homme route). Devil's Tower was first free climbed to the top by Fritz Wiessner on June 28, 1937 during his yearly travels through the area; his route—also on the southeast side of the Tower—is now known as the Wiessner Route and is rated at 5.7.

    Climbs / Photos

    One Way Sunset (5.10c, 5p)

    North Face Areas
    July 29
    Description: This is apparently one of the best routes to the top, if you climb 10c and want something more challenging than the popular Durrance (5.8) route. Classic climbing, great fingers, great hands, great belays, solid and sustained climbing, a stately pleasure cruise. Also a good choice on a hot day since the route is north facing. Solid bolted belays the whole way up. Pitch 1: fingers, face; Pitch 2: hands; Pitches 3-5: wider.

    History: This rather visionary and historic route was first free climbed on June 15, 1977 by Dennis Horning an Jim Slichter. This was the first free route done in this improbable looking area of the West Face. Dennis originally climbed what is now the first pitch as two shorter pitches, naming them "Warm-up Pitch" and "Feather-Fingers Pitch".

    Gear: Standard rack, medium stoppers, large cams for Pitch 2. 

    Route Overlay

    CLICK TO ENLARGE

    Photos

    Burning Daylight Pitch 1 (5.10b, 1p)

    North Face Areas
    July 30
    Description: Four bulges/roofs in a dihedral. Fingers, hands. History: FA: Dennis Horning and Mike Todd, October 30, 1977.

    Belle Fourche Buttress Pitches 1&2 (5.10b, 2p)

    North Face Areas
    July 30
    Description: Bad ass, steep crack climbing. Big, almost rattly fingers to thin hands. Committing climbing on perfect rock. History: This route was originally done as an aid climb in 1961 by Don Ryan and Gary Cole. In the autumn of 1977, an inspired Dennis Horning talked Dave Rasmussen into holding the rope for him while he led it. It is impressive to consider that Dennis had EBs on this feet and only stoppers and hexes on his rack.

    Tulgey Wood Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p)

    West Face
    July 30
    Description: Pitch 1: Fingers, stem, and liebacks; Pitch 2: Good hand-fist crack. History: The West Face was once deemed impossible terrain for free climbers. Mark Hesse and Dan McClure proved it was possible on June 2, 1972. They rated it 5.9+. The second, extremely long pitch only felt 5.9 probably because they climbed mostly in Vedauwoo.

    Back to Montana (5.10d, 2p)

    North Face Areas
    August 1
    Description: A must-do for aspiring Tower stemmers. Pitch 1: Approach by climbing the first pitch of Everlasting. Pitch 2: Traverse up and right from the belay and follow a rotten corner, eventually tending back left to gain the main corner system. Although a little dirty at the start, this climb is a classic. History: FA: Frank Sanders and Chris Engle, September 5, 1981. FFA: Dennis Horning and Monte Cooper, June 27, 1982. 

    Buckspeck (5.10c, 1p)

    North Face Areas
    August 1
    Description: Arete, sport. 15 bolts + anchor. This is one of the few pure face climbs on the Tower. History: FA: Dennis Horning and Hollis Marriott, 1991.

    McCarthy's West Face Free Variation Pitch 1 (5.9+, 1p)

    West Face
    August 1
    Description: Pitch 1: Climb up past broken arete to a shallow, right-facing corner. From the ledge, launch right into a steep finger crack and past a small roof (crux 5.9+). Continue up a left-facing corner, moving right past a small overhang into another right-facing corner. Delicate face and crack climbing lead you to the belay. Pitch 2:.... History: FA: Chris Ballinger, Dennis Horning, and Steve Gardiner, July 1, 1978. Falcon Closure!: When we were midway through the first pitch, a ranger yelled up that the route was closed due to peregrine falcon nesting (which we had not known, although we should have been more aware). We finished the pitch, rappelled off, and joined the ranger for a nice long reasonably-friendly chat in the ranger station. It's good they take the peregrine nesting seriously.

    Camping, Prairie Dog, and other Random Photos

    July 29-August 1
    Random photos from the trip....

    There is a Prairie Dog Town just outside the campground in the Devil's Tower National Monument zone. We took a day off from climbing, and I enjoyed a few hours photographing the prairie dogs. Eric and I had some fun discussing the social dynamics of the prairie dog field. The ones close to the road were definitely rounder and friendlier than the leaner and meaner prairie dogs at the outskirts of the field.

    Intro

    Devil's Tower was the second stop of a 10-day climbing road trip beginning in the Black Hills Needles of South Dakota and continuing through few climbing areas in Wyoming. We climbed at Devil's Tower for three half days, climbing in the shade to avoid direct sun in the 90-100° temperatures. The first afternoon we climbed a great 3-pitch route on the North Face. The second morning we climbed a few long single-pitch routes on the West Face; I was particularly enthused to lead Mr. Clean (5.11a), a route which features a phenomenal finger to hands enduro splitter. The third morning we climbed a couple of more of classic 5.11a crack routes (McCarthy's North Face & Carol's Crack, a good link-up of routes to circumnavigate the tower too) on the North Face before driving to our next destination: Ten Sleep. On the evenings between our days of climbing we enjoyed sitting in the shade of the Devils Tower Trading Post drinking Pepsi and working on the computer and looking and guidebooks, and in the evenings we enjoyed dinner and books at the peaceful Belle Fourche River Campground at the base of the Tower. On this trip, I was reminded of how good the crack climbing is at the Tower: long, sustained, crack climbs on excellent rock with excellent protection. We'll definitely be back.

    The following gives some photos for our three days at Devils Tower.

    Climbs / Photos

    Fractal Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p)

    West Face
    August 3
    Led by: Nate

    List of Climbs I've done at Devil's Tower

    LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

    Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

    Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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