Of the 100 best Sierra alpine rock climbs highlighted in John Moynier and Claude Fiddler’s
Sierra Classics, Bear Creek Spire claims three: the
East Arête (5.8), the
North Arête (5.8), and the
Northeast Ridge (mostly 4th class with some low 5th). In
The Good, the Great, and the Awesome, Peter Croft calls the
Northeast Ridge “one of the very best Class 4 routes in the High Sierra,” noting that it edges into low 5th class if you stick faithfully to the crest. From below, the ridge is unmistakable—the proudest line on the peak, sweeping elegantly from the saddle to the knife-edge summit arête. Solid granite, airy exposure, and a tiny summit block cement its reputation as a classic.
I had climbed the
North Arête (5.8, 10p) back in 2013 and loved everything about it—the setting, the rock, and the overall feel of the place. So in 2025, when I was looking for a solo objective, the
Northeast Ridge was the obvious choice. It delivered exactly what I was hoping for: a high-quality scramble on solid granite, with sweeping views and a dramatic finish along the summit ridge. Smoke from distant wildfires gave the day a faintly mystical atmosphere, and I met just one other climber on the route, Bret from Oregon, also soloing.
The following page includes a route overlay, approach map, time stats, and photos from my day on the
Northeast Ridge.