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Approach
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1. Hiking through the campground at Twin Lakes Resort at dawn. Follow the yellow tags on the trees, and these bring you to the Barney Lakes Trail. 2. After about 45 minutes on the trail, a climbers trail cuts off left to cross Robinson Creek. The trail cuts off at this boulder and tree. 3. Sarah crossing the log across Robinson Creek. The older supertopo guide mentions wading and flip-flops but this log is the same one we crossed in 2013 and might be there for awhile. 4. In upper Little Slide Canyon. You can see the Hulk on upper left of the photo. We pretty much just followed a cairn-marked path up the gut of the gully, which was pretty straightforward and direct and seemed to be the obvious way to go. This is probably the direct option mentioned in the supertopo guide, avoiding the "horrible steep scree" of the left option. 5. Outguard Spire on the right (west side) of upper Little Slide Canyon, not too far from the Hulk. There is a 6-pitch (10d) climb up the East Face, a Peter Croft route. Looks like a lot of potential for route lines on this tower. (2016 update: Here is a trip report for the East Face, which I climbed the following summer) 6. More towers on the right (west side) of upper Little Slide Canyon. I think the tallest one is called Regge Pole and the group on the left is called The Duck. Intriguing... 7. Climbers just below the Red Dihedral (Pitch 4). It was nice to have such light traffic on the route. That's the benefit of climbing mid-week. |
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Climb
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8. Sarah at the base of the route, which begins with a 3rd class ramp. We scrambled left to the crest for our first belay. 9. Sarah leading off Pitch 1. Since I wanted to lead the Red Dihedral (Pitch 4), and we wouldn't be setting much gear on Pitch 1 and we planned to link Pitches 2-3, we decided it was most efficient if Sarah just block led Pitches 1 and 2-3. 10. The "5.8 bulge" on Pitch 1. This is the only significant climbing on this pitch, everything else on the pitch is pretty easy. 11. Sarah leading off Pitch 2, which we linked with Pitch 3. Pitch 2 starts with a 5.9 stem section with tricky pro. 12. Looking up Pitch 3. This has a tricky 5.9 lieback section near the top. Both times I've climbed the route I've found Pitches 2-3 to be pretty heads-up climbing, so great lead Sarah! 13. Looking up the Red Dihedral of Pitch 4. My turn to lead! 14. Looking down at the dihedral from just above the 5.10b bulge crux near the top of Pitch 4. What a great pitch! 15-17. Looking over at climbers on Positive Vibrations from my belay at the top of Pitch 4. The upper climber is on the crux of Positive Vibrations. 18. Looking up Pitch 5, which is easily linked with Pitch 6 with a 60m rope. There are several options for these two pitches, so pay attention to the topo or just wing it and have an adventure. 19. Sarah leading the 5.10a splitter on Pitch 7. Really great climbing for about 30 feet. 20. Looking up the left side of the Shattered Pillar of Pitch 8. There's a 5.9 section near the top of the pillar. 21. An old bolt at the top of the Shattered Pillar. 22. Sarah climbing up the "5.9 bulge" section on Pitch 9, which I linked with Pitch 9 in a rope-stretching lead. Both times I've climbed this route this section stood out as being really good climbing and not at all trivial 5.9, seems more 5.9+ on lead. You can just make it to a ledge with a 60m rope but it's close and drag is pretty bad by this point. 23. The "5.8 lieback" at the top of Pitch 9. We linked the top of Pitch 9 with Pitch 10 to get us to the notch. 24. Sarah took this fun corner variation for Pitch 10 instead of staying right on more blocky 5.6 terrain. This corner was not hard (5.7ish?) but was pretty fun. 25. From the top of Pitch 10, you make a 3rd class traverse to the base of the blocky crack in the photo. The blocky crack is Pitch 11. 26. Looking down while climbing Pitch 11. This is somewhat dirty, chockstone-slinging, wide-crack, burly 5.8 climbing. I like this sort of climbing. 27. The dirty ramp at the start of Pitch 12. This washes into Pitch 11 every time it rains.... 28. Sarah emerging from the tunnel-through at the top of Pitch 12. This would be quite a tight squeeze for a big guy. I had linked Pitches 11 and 12, so rope drag made getting through the tunnel a bit more burly than necessary, but still quite possible. 29. Sarah and I doing Hulk poses on the summit. 30. Shadow of the Hulk on the surrounding walls. |
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Descent
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31. Rappel anchor for the single rappel you make on the south side of the Hulk to the notch between two gullies. A couple more slings have been added since 2013 and a couple have been removed. 32-33. Heading down the gully, which brings you right back to the base of the route. 34. Looking up the descent gully from the base of Red Dihedral. 35. Until I met Sarah, I thought I was the only one who (a) brought sardines on a climb and (b) ate them with a nut tool. ;) 36. Some intriguing cracks on a cliff in Upper Slide Canyon.... |