Joshua Tree Climbing: Three Winter Break Trips

Joshua Tree

- Winter Break Roadtrip: 5.5 days and 40+ climbs
- Christmas with the family: 5 days and 30+ climbs
- Christmas with the family: 6 days and 28+ climbs

Region: California
Elev: ~3,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Date(s): December 14-22, 2016 (Wed-Thu)
Partner(s): Jason Cullum
Trip Report 2:
Date(s): December 25-31, 2017 (Mon-Sun)
Partner(s): Jenny Abegg, Marty Abegg, Sue Abegg
Trip Report 3:
Date(s): December 21-28, 2024 (Sat-Sat)
Partner(s): Jenny Abegg, Marty Abegg, Sue Abegg

Located in sunny southern California, Joshua Tree National Park is a popular winter climbing destination. Large granite features pepper the surreal landscape, offering thousands of routes up their grippy granite faces.

The first time I climbed at Joshua Tree was during a Thanksgiving trip with the Stanford Alpine Club in 2004. I cannot remember what we climbed, but I do remember having fun and enjoying some long cold nights huddled around the campfire. Twelve years later, during Winter Break of December 2016, inspired by the idea of finding some sun and doing some climbing, my friend and I drove all the way down to Joshua Tree and climbed for a week. The next year—Christmas 2017—my family flew down to Joshua Tree and my sister and I climbed together while my parents enjoyed hiking around exploring. We had such fond memories of this trip that we did a second Family Joshua Tree Christmas seven years later in 2024.

This page presents my trip reports for my December 2016 and 2017 and 2024 trips to Joshua Tree. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done at Joshua Tree.

Trip Reports

CLICK THE DROP DOWN TO SEE PHOTOS FROM EACH TRIP

Intro

As a teacher, I have over three weeks of holidays around Christmastime. I was itching to climb. Granite. Outside. In the sun. Joshua Tree (where I had never been) seemed like the perfect destination. Now I just needed a partner.

My friend Jason was easily convinced to join me. We decided to drive rather than fly so we could take our gear and be more flexible with dates and weather. We also decided to rent a car rather than drive on of our own; as shown in the table to the right, the better gas mileage and avoiding wear and tear on one of our own vehicles more than offsets the cost of the rental. By taking shifts, we managed the 1400-mile drive in a 27-hour push, averaging almost 40 mpg in our little Hyundai rental car and stopping only at a Starbucks, a Subway, a Powells Books, another Subway, a Carl's Junior, a McDonalds, 5 more Starbucks, 3 gas stations, and a 3-hour nap at a reststop. And then we were there! We had also decided to splurge and stay at an airbnb in Twentynine Palms — it was was well worth the $33/night to have a warm place to hang out during the long chilly nights, plus the additional bonus of a shower, kitchen, and (most important to me) wireless internet.

We climbed for five and a half days in Joshua Tree (we had planned on six, but the final day it started to rain around noon). With thousands of routes scattered on rocks throughout the park, it was a bit overwhelming to choose what to climb. So our mode was to experience as much of the surreal landscape as possible by climbing at a different area each day. We climbed a total of 40 different routes, mostly moderate trad leads with the occasional toprope climb; by doing laps on some of the routes, I got in about 10 pitches of climbing each day. Although the air temperatures were chilly, there sky was cloudless (until the final day!) and as long as we climbed in the sun we were comfortable. Jason was an awesome partner, putting up with my climb-all-day-every-day-and-we-better-not-sleep-in-who-cares-about-chilly-mornings style, and being enjoyable and entertaining company the entire time.

This was an awesome way to spend a week of Winter Break. I'll be back for sure (2017 update: Christmas 2017 at Joshua Tree trip report!). Thanks Jason for joining! The following page gives a list of the climbs we did and some photos from each day.

Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: December 16 (Fri)
Partner: Jason Cullum
Climbed at: Indian Cove

Day 1

Routes:
Indian Cove
1 The Mikado, Feudal Wall, 5.6, 55', trad (led by Jason)
2 Duchess, Feudal Wall, 5.6, 50', trad (led by Steph)
3 Duchess Right, Feudal Wall, 5.7, 50', trad (TR)
4 The Castrum, Feudal Wall, 5.10a, 50', trad (TR)
5 Marchesa, Feudal Wall, 5.2, 50', trad (TR)
6 Swishbah, Feudal Wall, 5.7, 50', trad (led by Steph)
7 Coyote in the Bush, Feudal Wall, 5.10a, 50', sport (TR)
8 Tranquility, Moosedog Tower, 5.6, 130', 2p, trad (P1 led by Jason, P2 led by Steph)

More climbing fun!
Date: December 18 (Sun)
Partner: Jason Cullum
Climbed at: Hidden Valley CG

Day 3

Routes:
Hidden Valley CG
1 Mike's Books, Intersection Rock, 5.6, 160', 2p, trad (led by Steph)
2 The Waterchute, Intersection Rock, 5.10b, 70', trad (TR)
3 Underpass (/w Overhang Bypass finish), Intersection Rock, 5.6, 120', 2p, trad (led by Steph)
4 Hands Off, The Wall, 5.8, 50', trad (led by Steph)
5 Double Cross, The Old Woman, 5.7, 80', trad (led by Steph)
6 Toe Jam, The Old Woman, 5.7, 80', trad (led by Steph)

More climbing fun!
Date: December 19 (Mon)
Partner: Jason Cullum
Climbed at: Jumbo Rocks, Sheep Pass

Day 4

Routes:
Jumbo Rocks
1 Gem, Conan's Corridor, 5.8, 60', trad (led by Steph)
2 Spiderman, Conan's Corridor, 5.10a, 90', trad (TR)
3 Colorado Crack, Conan's Corridor, 5.9, 110', trad (TR)
4 Boulderado, Conan's Corridor, 5.10d, 95', sport (TR)
5 Fool's Gold, Conan's Corridor, 5.8, 60', trad (TR)

Sheep Pass
6 Take Five, Wailing Sax Wall, 5.8, 75', trad (led by Steph)
7 The Morning After, Wailing Sax Wall, 5.8, 55', trad (TR)
8 Maiden Voyage, Wailing Sax Wall, 5.10a, 100', trad/sport (TR)

More climbing fun!
Date: December 20 (Tue)
Partner: Jason Cullum
Climbed at: Quail Springs, Hidden Valley CG

Day 5

Routes:
Quail Springs
1 Popular Mechanics, White Cliffs of Dover, 5.9, 90', trad (led by Steph)
2 Ace of Spades, White Cliffs of Dover, 5.9, 100', trad (led by Steph)
3 Card Chimney, White Cliffs of Dover, 5.5, 80', trad (TR)
4 Jack of Hearts, White Cliffs of Dover, 5.9, 80', trad (TR)
5 Unnamed (crack branching left off Ace of Spades), White Cliffs of Dover, 5.9ish, 100', trad (TR)

Hidden Valley CG
6 The Flake, Intersection Rock, 5.8, 140', (2p), trad (P1 led by Steph, "P2" led by Jason)
7 The Eye, Cyclops Rock, 5.3, 100', trad (led by Jason)

More climbing fun!
Date: December 21 (Wed)
Partner: Jason Cullum
Climbed at: Quail Springs, Hidden Valley CG

Intro

For the last four Christmases, I had been climbing in Cochise Stronghold (links: Cochise 2020, Cochise 2021, Cochise 2022, Cochise 2023). These were productive trips. But these trips also meant that it had been a long time since my entire family (parents Marty and Sue, sister Jenny, and me) had spent Christmas together. So for Christmas 2024, we planned a family climbing trip. We had fond memories of our 2017 family Christmas climbing trip to Joshua Tree, so we decided to return. We found an airbnb just outside the town of Joshua Tree, and off we went for our first family vacation in several years. Jenny and I both decided to drive so that we could stay a few more days, and our parents also decided to make the mega 24-hour, 1400-mile drive from Chilliwack, British Columbia to Joshua Tree, CA. I had the shortest drive (Estes Park to Joshua Tree: 15 hours, 1000 miles).

We had a great week together. The airbnb was super nice. The typical day started off with a relaxing morning (me and my dad working on our computers, Jenny soaking in the hot tub, my mom in the kitchen cleaning and making lunches, and everyone consuming several cups of coffee). By mid-morning all of us headed out, my parents to go hiking and Jenny and I to go climbing. Often our parents would hike by to watch our progress and cheer us on. The weather was good the entire trip (highs in the mid-50s), and climbed at least a bit every day. Jenny's friend Michael Hutchins joined us for the last few days of the trip. It was special to spend the week together as a family.

The following page gives a list of the climbs we did and some photos from each day.

Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: December 26 (Tue)
Partner: Jenny Abegg
Climbed at: Wonderland of Rocks

Day 1 

Routes:
Wonderland of Rocks
1 Breakfast of Champions, South Astrodome, 5.9, 150', 2 pitches, trad
2 Solid Gold Pitch 1, South Astrodome, 5.10a, 90', sport
3 Unconscious Obscenity, Lenticular Dome, 5.8+, 70', sport
4 Dazed and Confused Pitch 1, Lenticular Dome, 5.9, 90', sport
5 Mental Physics Pitch 1, Lenticular Dome, 5.7, 90', trad

More climbing fun!
Date: December 27 (Wed)
Partner: Jenny Abegg
Climbed at: Real Hidden Valley

Day 2

Routes:
Real Hidden Valley
1 Creeping Jew, The Pope's Hat, V0+ (boulder problem)
2 Sail Away, Hidden Tower, 5.8, 70', trad
3 Wild Wind, Hidden Tower, 5.9, 60', trad
4 No Calculators Allowed, The Thin Wall, 5.10a, 65', trad
5 Chocolate is Better Than Sex, The Thin Wall, 5.9, 50', trad
6 Count on Your Fingers, The Thin Wall, 5.9, 65', trad
7 Congratulations, The Thin Wall, 5.10d, 65', toprope
8 Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing, The Thin Wall, 5.6, 40', trad
9 The Great Chasm (aka Chasm of Doom), Gateway Rock, 3rd (scramble)
*We met our parents at the parking lot and capped the day off with a scramble through The Great Chasm (aka Chasm of Doom). A tunnel through Gateway Rock, The Chasm is sort of a secret among climbers (otherwise it would become quite a tourist trap); if you want to ruin the adventure of finding it on your own, here is a hint on how to find it; even with the hint, it’s a lot of just following your nose and discovering the way - that's part of the adventure of it!

More climbing fun!
Date: December 28 (Thu)
Partner: Jenny Abegg
Climbed at: Hall of Horrors, The Oyster Bar, Ryan Campground

Day 3

Routes:
Hall of Horrors
1 Nurn's Romp, East Formation, 5.8, 80', trad
2 Exorcist, East Formation, 5.10a, 60', trad
3 Lazy Day, Horror Rock, 5.7, 60', trad
4 Dog Day Afternoon, Horror Rock, 5.10b, 80', sport

The Oyster Bar
5 Heart of Darkness, Heart of Darkness Corridor, 5.11a, 40', trad

Ryan Campground
6 Southwest Corner, Headstone Rock, 5.6, 40', sport
7 Cryptic, Headstone Rock, 5.8, 40', sport

More climbing fun!
Date: December 29 (Fri)
Partner: Jenny Abegg
Climbed at: Echo Tee

Day 4

Routes:
Echo Tee
1 Heart and Sole, Echo Rock, 5.10a, 65', sport/trad
2 Quick Draw McGraw, Echo Rock, 5.10a, 65', sport (toprope)
3 The Falcon & The Snowman, Echo Rock, 5.10b, 65', sport (toprope)
4 Touch and Go, Echo Cove Back Side, 5.9, 50', trad
5 The Gold Hunk, Echo Cove Back Side, 5.11a, 45', trad (toprope)
6 Effigy Too, Effigy Wall, 5.10a, 40', trad
7 Hatfields and McCoys, Effigy Wall, 5.10c, 50', sport/trad
8 Wangerbanger, Rusty Wall, 5.11c, 40', trad
9 O'Kelley's Crack, Rusty Wall, 5.10c, 45', trad (toprope)

Intro

For the last four Christmases, I had been climbing in Cochise Stronghold (links: Cochise 2020Cochise 2021Cochise 2022Cochise 2023). These were productive trips. But these trips also meant that it had been a long time since my entire family (parents Marty and Sue, sister Jenny, and me) had spent Christmas together. So for Christmas 2024, we planned a family climbing trip. We had fond memories of our 2017 family Christmas climbing trip to Joshua Tree, so we decided to return. We found an airbnb just outside the town of Joshua Tree, and off we went for our first family vacation in several years. Jenny and I both decided to drive so that we could stay a few more days, and our parents also decided to make the mega 24-hour, 1400-mile drive from Chilliwack, British Columbia to Joshua Tree, CA. I had the shortest drive (Estes Park to Joshua Tree: 15 hours, 1000 miles).

We had a great week together. The airbnb was super nice. The typical day started off with a relaxing morning (me and my dad working on our computers, Jenny soaking in the hot tub, my mom in the kitchen cleaning and making lunches, and everyone consuming several cups of coffee). By mid-morning all of us headed out, my parents to go hiking and Jenny and I to go climbing. Often our parents would hike by to watch our progress and cheer us on. The weather was good the entire trip (highs in the mid-50s), and climbed at least a bit every day. Jenny's friend Michael Hutchins joined us for the last few days of the trip. It was special to spend the week together as a family.

The following page gives a list of the climbs we did and some photos from each day.

Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: December 22 (Sun)
Partner: Jenny Abegg
Climbed at: Real Hidden Valley

More climbing fun!
Date: December 24 (Tue)
Partner: Jenny Abegg
Climbed at: Split Rock
Date: December 28 (Sat)

Day 7

Hiked out to Wondeland of Rocks but there was a party queing up for the route we wanted to do. Our preceeding hour-long wait at the entrance had delayed us and put a bit of a damper on my spirits, and not wanting to deal with an hour-long wait exiting the park (as we had done the previous evening) I decided to hike back out to begin my drive to Hueco Tanks. Jenny and Michael stayed a couple of days longer in Joshua Tree. It had been a great trip.

List of Climbs I've done in Joshua Tree

LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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