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The Odyssey (5.10+, ~8p, ~1500′)

Guppy Amphitheater

Route:

The Odyssey

5.10+, ~8p, ~1500'

The Odyssey characterizes what I think of when I think of an adventure route in the Black: a rough scramble down a steep gully, stretches of good rock with quality 5.9-5.10 climbing interrupted with stretches of choss to keep things interesting, amazing views and belay positions, and 1500 feet from the base of the route to a top out on the canyon rim.

Region: Colorado

Elev: 6,000-7,000 ft

Rock type: Gneiss

Type:

Date(s): May 15, 2020 (Fri)

Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Related trip reports:

Black Canyon of the Gunnison Main Page

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Intro

The Odyssey is relatively recent to the Black, having been put up in an off-the-couch, early season, ground up descent by Ryan Rees and Vic Zeilman in May 2014. The Odyssey characterizes what I think of when I think of an adventure route in the Black: a rough scramble down a steep gully, stretches of good rock with quality 5.9-5.10 climbing interrupted with stretches of choss to keep things interesting, amazing views and belay positions, and 1500 feet from the base of the route to a top out on the canyon rim. Overall, a worthy adventure, but also one I probably wouldn't repeat (routes like these have a bit too much objective danger to repeat - climbing them once is fun, but twice or more is just increasing the odds that something bad might actually happen).

Nate and I climbed The Odyssey as the first of three climbs during an enjoyable trip to the Black in May 2020. The other two climbs we did on this trip were Cloaked Interpretation and Buzz Cut. The Black had a rather unique vibe to it on this trip, since the National Park had just re-opened to day use following a lengthy closure due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Approach via Guppy Gully, which is accessed about 0.75 miles from the ranger station along the North Vista Trail. Guppy Gully is about 200 feet before an overlook sign, which can be a good way to confirm you have identified the correct gully. There is a short fixed rappel at some point. At the blocky "ridge" that protrudes from the southeast face, scramble a couple of hundred feet up exposed 4th class to reach the base of the route. Also look also for the prominent dihedral of pitch two.

Pitch 1

5.9+

Head up the crack/dihedral to a ledge below the dihedral of Pitch 2. a polished, brown dihedral.

Pitch 2

5.10+ (crux)

Climb the polished, brown dihedral. The crux is near the end of the dihedral where it steepens. This is a quality pitch of climbing.

Pitch 3

5.9

Climb a left-leaning crack with some face moves and then climb another thin crack to a belay ledge with boulders.

Pitch 4

5.9

Start the pitch with a reachy move to a jug. Climb 5.7 R on good rock up to a ledge, and then climb a prominent crack system to another belay ledge.

Pitch 5

5.9

Climb first the corner above, then climb the face (two bolts), then climb some cracks, then climb through peg to a belay in an alcove. The rock on this pitch is pretty good.

Pitches 6&7

5.8/5.7 DFU

Move left and climb bushy cracks and corners into another alcove, and then take the path of least resistance to the large terrance above the upper peg band. Unfortunately this section of the route is quite chossy and bushy. Be careful what you use for hand holds.