Route Overlay
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Intro
Natalie and I climbed this as the second of a two-tower link-up. We had climbed Medicine Man on Sentinel Spire that morning, and finished with plenty of time to hike across the valley floor and climb the popular Otto's Route on Independence Monument. The route is climbed in four short pitches that finishes with the last steep and exposed prow to the awesome summit. This is a historic climb, first climbed in 1911. The FA, Otto, drilled and chopped many holds in the soft sandstone to aid up this route with pipes in the holes, but now just the holes remain, making the route quite unique, fun, and moderate. The climb is also on the north side of the tower, so is in the shade.
Gear beta: I set one cam the entire climb: the #4, on the wide crack on the second pitch. This was partly due to the fact that there was a party of 10 (!) that arrived at the base just before us, so I was in the mode of passing them quickly, and placing gear just took time and tangled ropes. But it was mostly due to the fact that the climb has drilled holes and chopped steps at all of the cruxes, so it was quite moderate climbing. Plus the upper pitches had several bolts for protection, since there's not an abundance of gear opportunities up there. I would recommend just bringing a few cams (the #4 was nice to have) and about 10 draws/slings. Fast and light is the way to go! We were ground to summit in just over an hour. A single 70 m rope got us back to the base of the route in three raps, so you can even leave your approach shoes at the base. A 60m rope would be a bit short for a couple of the raps.
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
2nd
Most climbers just climbing Independence Monument for the day approach via the Monument Trail. But we were linking this climb with a climb on Sentinel Spire, so we approached via a cross-country hike across the desert landscape between Sentinel Spire and Independence Monument. This hike takes 30-40 minutes over pleasant desert terrain.
Pitch 1
5.5
Follow an angling ramp, climb past a chockstone, and then climb up chopped steps to a large ledge.
Pitch 2
5.8
Climb up widening crack through a squeeze/slot. Drilled 1-inch holes from Otto's pipe ladder make the climbing 5.8 rather than 5.10. Continue up through the 3rd class Time Tunnel.
Pitch 3
5.8
Fun pitch. Climb up the face on drilled pockets and chopped steps to Lunch Box Ledge.
Pitch 4
5.8+
Follow chopped steps up the runnout airy prow and finish with a steep headwall below the caprock. There are bolts for protection on the upper headwall section. Belay on a ledge just below the summit.
Top
From the belay, make a single 5.8 boulder move to get onto the summit. Enjoy the spectacular view!
Descent
Rappel
Three raps down route with single 70. A 60 would be a bit short.
Previous and Next Adventures