Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 29, 2019 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright (full route, 14 pitches)
- Date: June 4, 2021 (Fri); Partner: Nate Arganbright (8 pitches only)
- Date: July 20, 2022 (Wed); Partner: Nate Arganbright (full route, now 18 pitches)
Route Overlay
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Intro
The Golden Staircase is an 18-pitch link-up of formations starting near the base of The Crags and ending at the high point at the top of the Upper Great Face. The route links up Slot Rock, Point of Honor, Woodstone, Half & Half, Sharksfin, Grey Slab, Druid Tower, and Upper Great Face and the climbing ranges from 5.9 to 5.11, all sport, all bolted belays, and on excellent rock. All you need in 12 draws and a 60m rope. The route was established by Dustin Dyer.
I first climbed The Golden Staircase was with Nate in September 2019. In 2019, the route was a 14-pitch link-up starting at the base of Woodstone. This was the first time I had climbed at The Crags. It was a super fun day. There is not a bad pitch on the route—the climbing is super fun and the three 5.11 pitches offer engaging moves on well-protected terrain. I love the kind of route you can move quickly over lots of 5.9-5.11 terrain. Nate and I were base to top in 5 hours and 16 minutes (average of just over 22.5 minutes per pitch), moving at what was just an enjoyable yet efficient pace.
Sometime in late 2021 or early 2022, four additional pitches were added to the start of the Golden Staircase to make it into an 18-pitch adventure starting at the base of Slot Rock. In July 2022, Nate and I climbed the entire 18 pitches. It is possible we were the first party to climb the route in its full 18-pitch entirety. We climbed from base to top in 6 hours and 17 minutes (average of just under 21 minutes per pitch), moving at what was just an enjoyable yet efficient pace. Nate did all of the leading this time (impressive!).
The following gives a pitch-by-pitch breakdown for the 18-pitch Golden Staircase. I have included photos from both the September 2019 and the July 2022 ascents. I also included our time stats from the 2022 ascent. Thanks Dustin for the vision and the effort in establishing this fun route. What a blast!
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
2nd
Leave car: ~8:00 am
Approach directly to base of Slot Rock: ~ 30 min
Idea: Approach as per Wizards Gate and continue to base of Druid Tower halfway up route, leave extra stuff like water and lunch and shorts, descend to base of Woodstone, climb 8 pitches back up to base of Druid Tower, rehydrate and refuel and leave extra layers, and continue the remaining 6 pitches up to top of Upper Great Face. Collect your stuff on the descent.
In July 22, Nate and I approached via the lower path directly to the base of the route, going in light with only the gear we needed. We did not climb with packs. I prefer this style over stashing gear near the Enchanted Forest as we had in September 2019.
Pitch 1
5.8, 8 bolts
Slot Rock
Start pitch: 8:48 am
Time split to start of next pitch: 12 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Slot Rock.
Pitch 2
5.9, 10 bolts
Slot Rock
Start pitch: 9:00 am
Time split to start of next pitch: 17 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Slot Rock.
Pitch 3
5.8, 7 bolts
Slot Rock
Start pitch: 9:17 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes short hike): 19 minutes
From top of pitch: Hike to base of Point of Honor.
Pitch 4
5.10a, 6 bolts (E side of tower) or 5.11c, 6 bolts (W side of tower)
Point of Honor
Start pitch: 9:36 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes rappel and short hike): 18 minutes
From top of tower: One rappel down to base, short walk to base of Woodstone Rock.
Pitch 5
(original Pitch 1)
5.9, 6 bolts
Woodstone Rock
Start pitch: 9:54 am
Time split to start of next pitch: 10 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Woodstone.
Pitch 6
5.10, 8 bolts
Woodstone Rock
Start pitch: 10:04 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes rappel and short hike): 24 minutes
From top of pitch: One rappel, short walk to base of Half & Half.
Pitch 7
5.9, 9 bolts
Half & Half Crag
Start pitch: 10:28 am
Time split to start of next pitch: 14 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Half & Half.
Pitch 8
5.11, 9 bolts
Half & Half Crag
Start pitch: 10:42 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes short hike): 27 minutes
From top of pitch: Scramble to base of next feature.
Pitch 9
5.9, 7 bolts
Sharksfin
Start pitch: 11:09 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes rappel): 16 minutes
From top of pitch: One rappel to base of next pitch.
Pitch 10
5.10, 9 bolts
Sharksfin
Start pitch: 11:25 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes rappel): 25 minutes
From top of pitch: One rappel to base of Gray Slab.
Pitch 11
5.10, 9 bolts
Gray Slab
Start pitch: 11:50 am
Time split to start of next pitch (includes short hike): 19 minutes
From top of pitch: Scramble to base of next pitch on Gray Slab.
Pitch 12
5.10, 8 bolts
Gray Slab
Start pitch: 12:09 pm
Time split to start of next pitch (includes hike through Enchanted Forest): 33 minutes
From top of pitch: Put on approach shoes and walk through the Enchanted Forest to base of Druid Tower.
Pitch 13
5.11, 11 bolts
Druid Tower
Start pitch: 12:42 pm
Time split to start of next pitch: 22 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Druid Tower.
Pitch 14
5.11, 12 bolts
Druid Tower
Start pitch: 1:04 pm
Time split to start of next pitch (includes rappel): 38 minutes
From top of pitch: One rappel to base of The Dungeon.
Pitch 15
5.10, 8 bolts
The Dungeon
Start pitch: 1:42 pm
Time split to start of next pitch (includes rappel): 34 minutes
From top of pitch: One rappel to base of Upper Great Face.
Pitch 16
5.9, 9 bolts
Upper Great Face
Start pitch: 2:16 pm
Time split to start of next pitch: 16 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Upper Great Face.
Pitch 17
5.9, 12 bolts
Upper Great Face
Start pitch: 2:32 pm
Time split to start of next pitch: 19 minutes
From top of pitch: Continue up Upper Great Face.
Pitch 18
5.9, 11 bolts
Upper Great Face
Start pitch: 2:51 pm
Time split to top: 14 minutes
From top of pitch: Scramble to summit.
Top
Arrive on top: 3:05 pm
Yay! Enjoy the view, and the beautiful ancient limber pine trees.
Descent
Back to car: ~4:20 pm
Top of route to car: ~ 1 hour 15 min
From top, stroll down gully between Upper Great Face and Lower Great Face. Collect your stuff at base of Druid Tower if you chose to stash some there. Hike back down from here the way you came up.
