The previous weekend, Nate and I had spent two nights and two days in Upper Glacier Gorge, climbing two routes: Refugium (5.10a, 5p) on Arrowhead and East Prow (5.9+/10b, 6p) on The Spearhead. We had such a good weekend that we decided to return the next weekend and climb two more routes. I secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and Nate and I bivied up there for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights) at our favorite bivy location below Spearhead.

The forecast for Friday afternoon was for heavy rain. We felt we got lucky when we arrived at our bivy completely dry, the skies threatening rain but nothing materializing. But overnight the heavy rains arrived, and on Saturday morning the surrounding summits were shrouded in wet clouds. We opted for a lazy morning reading and drinking coffee. Mid-morning we seemed to be getting weather window, so we headed out to climb the North Ridge (5.6-5.8, 8p) of Spearhead. The North Ridge route ascends the long ridge (really a narrow face) just right of the Northeast Face of Spearhead. The rock is excellent and the climbing is exhilarating. Several variations exist. Neither Nate nor I had climbed this moderate classic and we figured the weather made it a good day for a lower commitment route. It began to rain on us two pitches from the top, but we finished the route, and then spent the afternoon drying off back at our bivy, under improving weather.

On Sunday we climbed Step-in-Stein (5.10a, 4p) on Dark Tower in the Keyboard of the Winds. Sunday had a splitter weather forecast.

This page gives a trip report for our climb of North Ridge of Spearhead. I also give some photos of our two days and nights hanging out in this spectacular area. Enjoy!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

Hike Glacier Gorge trail to Black Lake and continue up into basin below base of Spearhead.

(no photos)

Pitches 1-4

5.4 to 5.8 depending on route (several variations and linking possible)

Pitch 1 (Rossiter): Scramble up and left across an easy slab and belay at the bottom of a steep slot. This is the left of two similar slots; the right slot is considerably more difficult.

Pitch 2 (Rossiter): Climb the slot and belay at the base of a V-shaped dihedral.

Pitch 3 (Rossiter): Work up the and another similar feature, then continue up an easy, right-facing corner to a belay.

Pitch 4 (Rossiter): Continue up the easy corner to a big ledge and belay at the left end.

We climbed this as two long pitches.

Pitch 5

5.5, 150'

(Rossiter) Climb a flawless slab and belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 6

5.5, 150'

(Rossiter) Follow a shallow right-facing corner and step left to a belay on a square-cut ledge.

Pitch 7

5.6, 150'

(Rossiter) From the left side of the ledge, climb an exposed left-facing dihedral, then traverse right to a larger left-facing dihedral that is followed to a small stance on the ridge crest. This is a great pitch.

Pitch 8

5.6, 150'

(Rossiter) Climb an awkward slot to a level section in the ridge, then tackle a short crack to reach a belay on a big bench.

Top

12,575 ft

From the top of Pitch 8, scramble 150 feet up broken 4th class terrain to the summit. Or just start the descent.

Descent

3rd

The best way to descend from the North Ridge is via 3rd class slopes on the SW side.

Other Photos

We had secured a bivy permit for Upper Glacier Gorge (need to be climbing a route that is at least four pitches to qualify for a bivy permit), and we bivied up there for two nights (Friday and Saturday nights) at our favorite bivy location below The Spearhead. What a marvelous place to hang out for the weekend!

Our bivy

Upper Glacier Gorge has some of the best bivy locations in RMNP. We stayed at one of our favorites, which we have stayed at a few times before. It is sheltered enough to keep one dry in a storm (as we found out on this trip....) and has a nice flat area for sleeping.

Flora

The wildflowers were out.

Elk

The Upper Glacier Gorge area often has elk in the summer. We spotted several elk in the area.

Scenery

Upper Glacier Gorge is a picturesque place.

Checking out a new route on The Spearhead

A new 7-pitch 5.11c route—called The Kingfisher—had been completed on The Spearhead the previous weekend. We went to check out the start of the route, since we are interested in climbing it later this summer. It may be problematic getting to the first bolt once the snowpatch melts back though....

We climbed The Kingfisher the following weekend. Click link for trip report!