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City of Rocks Climbing: Three Early Summer Trips

City of Rocks Climbing

- 1st trip to the City: 5+ days and >40 climbs, June 2014
- 2nd trip to the City: 4 days and lots of climbs, June 2016
- 3rd trip to the City: 10.5-day, 106-route detour on my move from WA to CO, June 2019

Region: Idaho
Elev: ~6,500 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Date(s): June 18-22, 2014 (Wed-Sun) & July 1, 2014 (Tue)
Partner(s): Scott Smith, Mick Wright & Dave (Day 4.5)
Trip Report 2:
Date(s): June 12-15, 2016 (Sun-Wed)
Partner(s): Jeff Lodas (Days 1-3), Terry Price (Day 4)
Trip Report 3:
Date(s): June 15-25, 2019
Partner(s): Will Maness (Day 1), Dow Williams (Days 1-3), Braden Downey (Days 4-10.5)

Located in southern Idaho, the City of Rocks is a landscape of granite domes and spires, sage meadows, and aspen groves. It is a mecca of climbing. The granite here ages with an iron-based varnish on it, and when the varnish wears through, it forms areas that wear faster than the varnish, creating pockets and edges that are fun to climb. The majority of the routes have mixed protection (bolts and gear).

The first time I climbed in the City was in June 2014, for four days to start off a summer climbing road trip. I had so much fun that I came back two years later, in June 2016, yet again to kick off another summer of climbing. Then, three years later, on a move from Washington to Colorado, I realized I would be passing within miles of the City, and convinced my friend from Bellingham to join me for a climbing detour during my move, during which we climbed over 100 routes. I imagine I will be back again and again over the years.

This page presents my trip reports for my June 2014, June 2016, and June 2019 trips to the City of Rocks. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done in the City of Rocks.

Trip Reports

CLICK THE DROP DOWN TO SEE PHOTOS FROM EACH TRIP

Intro

I had just come to the end of a wonderfully intense two years grinding away on a Masters in Math, recently lined up a teaching job for the fall, and had a summer off in-between. So it was the perfect time to pack my Subaru full of gear and embark on an adventure! But where to head first? Washington was still quite rainy, the desert was already getting too hot to climb, and the Sierra might be a bit much after having spent the spring just cragging on weekends. I decided that a good destination would be the City of Rocks. Just north of the Utah-Idaho border, "The City" is a mecca of fun 1-pitch climbs on solid granite chunks riddled with splitter cracks and varnished features.

So I put a partner-post on MountainProject.com, and by the end of the day I had a partner named Scott. A week later I met Scott in the Bath Rock parking lot. After an initial bad-weather day (a snowstorm!), Scott and I spent four full days climbing in the City together. Scott turned out to be a perfect partner. Not only was he a really fun guy to be around, but he had climbed at the City since the pre-guidebook days and knew where all the best routes were. He was the ultimate City tour guide! Also, on our third and fourth days, Mick from Australia and Dave from England (two really cool guys who Scott had met in Indian Creek a couple of weeks previous) showed up and joined us for some City cragging fun. Mick and Dave are really good good climbers, so I got to follow their ropes up some of the City's great harder routes.

This trip report gives a brief summary of the routes Scott and I climbed and some random photos during our days in the City. We climbed a total of 42 different climbs and 47 pitches over 4.1 days. A pretty good trip, I'd say! Thanks Scott, Mick, and Dave for the fun times!

July 1 addition: I swung by the City a week later to climb one more day with Scott, Mick, and Dave; I added a route list and some photos to the end of this trip report.

Photos / Climbs


More climbing fun!
Date: June 18 (Wed)
Partner: Scott Smith
New climbs: 1
Total pitches climbed: 1

Day 0

Routes:
1. Rebar Route, Bath Rock, 4th It began snowing just as Scott and I met in the Bath Rock parking lot at 10am. So we chatted a bit, then scrambled up the Rebar Route on the back side of Bath Rock (ten heavy-gauge rebar handles were installed in the early 80’s on the backside of Bath Rock) for a murky yet tantalizing view of the City, and then Scott went to scope out some free camping while I headed for the wi-fi and coffee pot at the Tracy General Store in Almo. One more day to wait to begin the summer climbing adventure.
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Photo descriptions:
a. I arrived the evening before and checked the message board at Bath Rock just in case Scott had left a note. It was nice weather then!
b. The next morning we met at Bath Rock. A snow flurry kept our climbing ambitions to a scramble up the back side of Bath Rock, where we got a good view of the City.
c. Tracy General Store in Almo. This is the oldest mercantile store in Idaho still operating. They have it all: gas, post office, small but great selection of snacks and supplies, coffee, deli, wi-fi, friendly owners,... I probably wore out my welcome by staying here all afternoon paying just $1/hour for wi-fi and buying the occasional coffee or ice cream sandwich, but I was hoping that I'd be too busy climbing the next few days to camp out yet another day at the store.
d. Not often there are quick draws and belay devices at a general store!
e. The City has a colorful history. At Camp Rock, immigrants left records of their passing in axel grease.
f. The elevation of the City is in the 6000's.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 19 (Thu)
Partner: Scott Smith
New climbs: 8
Total pitches climbed: 11

Day 1

Routes:
2. Wheat Thin, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Scott) A City classic climb up an arching white flake. This route was on my "must-do" list so we did it first!
3. Conceptual Reality, The Gallstone, 1p, 5.9, trad-sport (led by Scott) Short crack to a short and well-bolted steep face above. We climbed this route as a quick detour after we descended the backside of Elephant Rock and were walking back around to the front-side climbs.
4. Rye Crisp, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Scott) Probably the coolest flake route at City of Rocks, a step up from Wheat Thin, with a fair amount of plug-and-go gear placements and laybacking if you so choose. Apparently lots of accidents occur at the lower crux. This was my favorite route of the day and favorite 5.8 of the trip.
5. Columbian Crack, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph) To get to the crack, chimney behind a boulder and climb up an ever-widening crack that eventually had me knee-jamming.
6. Just Say No, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Scott) Tricky start and up a blunt arête. The first bolt is high so Scott slung a chockstone as his first piece.
7. New York is Not the City, Bumblie Rock, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Scott) Sporty jugs and pockets and a single crux near the top.
8. Classic Route, The Lost Arrow, 2p, 5.7, trad (led by Scott) We were on our way to Stripe Rock, but couldn’t pass Lost Arrow spire by without climbing it. This is an exciting wandering route with several old pitons and a free-hanging rappel.
9. Cruel Shoes, Stripe Rock, 3p, 5.7, sport (led by Steph and Scott) A very well-bolted three-pitch wander up a face. Did I mention well-bolted?
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Scott made fresh coffee every morning. He really was the perfect climbing partner.
b.  Scott leading our first route at the City: Wheat Thin (5.7).
c.  A photo of the cool flake feature of Wheat Thin. Really fun climbing.
d.  View of the City from the top of Elephant Rock.
e.  A spontaneous knot in the middle of the rope. Sometimes the rope has a mind of its own.
f.  Heading to The Gallstone to climb Conceptual Reality (5.9) on the left prow.
g.  Fun crack to face climbing on Conceptual Reality.
h.  Elephant Rock as seen from The Gallstone.
i.  Black and white version of the previous photo.
j.  A climber on the cool flake feature of Rye Crisp (5.8), my favorite route of the day. Despite it's 5.8 rating, it's a challenging climb.
k.  Hiking between rocks in the City.
l.  Scott rappelling from The Lost Arrow.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 20 (Fri)
Partner: Scott Smith
New climbs: 12
Repeat climbs: 1
Total pitches climbed: 13

Day 2

Routes:
10. Mystery Achievement, Super Hits Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, sport (led by Scott) A good juggy warm-up route. This route has been re-bolted, so it is not the R rating it used to be.
11. Twist & Crawl, Super Hits Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, sport (toprope) Sparsely bolted arête with a nice finger crack at the top.
12. Bloody Fingers, Super Hits Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10a, trad (toprope) (climbed twice) Beautiful line, quality rock, varied and challenging moves. This City classic often has a line awaiting it, especially since it is top-ropable. Apparently several accidents have occurred on the bottom crux. So good, I had to climb again. 10a crack climbing is just pure fun.
13. New Toy, Super Hits Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10b, sport (toprope) Steep and thought-provoking face climbing just right of Bloody Fingers.
14. Double Vision, Super Hits Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10a, sport (toprope) This route has of shallow pockets which are great for the feet but not for the hands, so I did a lot of high-stepping and mantling.
15. Intruding Dike, Super Hits Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph) A popular route that follows a laser-cut quartz dike on the south wall of the corridor. It eats 0.5 and 0.75 cams. The downclimb to the west is a bit tricky.
16. Finer Niner, Provo Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Scott) A generic (though still fun) 5.9 sport climb.
17. Tennish Anyone, Provo Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10a, trad-sport (toprope) Crack start to a steep bolted face above.
18. Triple Roofs, Provo Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, trad (toprope) This route was surprisingly fun and spicy. I would give it 3 stars and a solid 5.8 rating (instead of the 1 star and 5.7 rating in the guidebook). The climbing involves a lot of sporty moves entering and exiting cracks. Gear placements are not trivial.
19. Adolescent Homosapien (aka Adolescent Homosexual), Decadent Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph) One of the most enticing lines on the wall. An easy crack climb up to a steep stemming crux just before the finish.
20. Another Jay Goodwin Route (aka Abortions on Parade), Decadent Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10c, trad (toprope) Sporty 10c climbing.
21. Life Without Sex, Decadent Wall at Breadloaves, 1p, 5.11a, sport (toprope) A strenuous roof move (11a) followed by rather fun 5.9ish climbing up to steep finish (high 5.10) on small varnished edges. I would give this route more than just the single star it gets in the guidebook.
Photos:
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Bloody Fingers, a great 10a crack on Super Hits Wall.
b.  Cool cubic jointing in some pegmatite formations at the base of Super HIts Wall.
c.  View of the City from the top of Super Hits Wall.
d.  Black and white version of the above.
e.  Many (but not all!) of the City climbs have bolted anchors at the top.
f.  A climber on Intruding Dike (5.7). This was a fun lead. The crack eats 0.5 and 0.75 cams.
g.  Campsites in the City are quite nice (these are at the base of Decadent Wall in the Breadloaves area), but you need reservations.
h.  Decadent Wall in the Breadloaves area. So much great climbing.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 21 (Sat)
Partner: Scott Smith
New climbs: 11
Total pitches climbed: 11

Day 3

Routes:
22. Rollercoaster, Bath Rock, 1p, 5.8+, sport (led by Scott and Mick) A great bolted warm-up route.
23. Private Idaho, Bath Rock, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Dave and Mick) 5.9 crack climbing fun. A bit thin for gear in the first section.
24. Colossus, Bath Rock, 1p, 5.10c, sport (led by Scott, Dave, and Mick) One of the best and most popular 10’s in the City, with two sporty roof cruxes.
25. Gemini, Bath Rock, 1p, 5.12a, sport (led by Dave and Mick) One of the most often-tried 12’s at the City. Dave and Mick did a great job leading it, and I pulled my way through all the moves, but with a few rests. The moves are all doable, just big!
26. Coffee and Cornflakes, Bath Rock, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Mick and Dave) Juggy steep climbing on a varnished face.
27. Donini’s Crack, Bath Rock, 1p, 5.10c, trad (led by Mick) Burley wide move entering the leaning hand-fist crack.
28. Skyline, Morning Glory Spire, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Scott) A beautiful/exciting/moderate and therefore quite popular line up Morning Glory Spire.
29. Siesta, Morning Glory Spire, 1p, 5.11b, sport (led by Dave) Nice position on an arête with a difficult crux move (hard not to barn door). Impressive lead Dave!
30. Fall Line, Morning Glory Spire, 1p, 5.10b/c, sport (led by Dave and Mick) A popular bolt-protected venture just right of Skyline.
31. The Pygmies got Stoned, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Dave and Mick) A somewhat generic but still quite fun 10a face climb.
32. Pretzel Logic to Pocatello Punk, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.10d, sport (led by Dave) A somewhat contrived bolted route. Dave took the bold right-hand variation near the top through a flaring squeeze/crack. (“It was right hard, that!” says Dave). My small size allowed for a knee-bar at the crux.
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Three classic City climbs on Bath Rock are shown here: The crack running down the center of the photo is Private Idaho (5.9 trad), and to the left is Rollercoaster (5.8+ sport) and to the right is Colossus (10c sport). 
b.  Scott leading off Rollercoaster.
c.  Scott on Rollercoaster and Dave on Private Idaho.
d.  The gear placements are a bit tricky on the first part of Private Idaho....Dave's first two wires pulled out when the rope tightened as he lowered from the top.
e.  Scott on the 10c crux roof of Colossus.
f.  Mick at the 10c crux of Domini's Crack.
g.  Steph climbing on Siesta (11b) on Morning Glory Spire.
h.  Mick at the 11b crux of Siesta.
i.  Hard not to barndoor on the crux!
j.  Crack of Doom (11c) on Morning Glory Spire, which we did not climb but is one of the most beautiful and challenging cracks in the City.
k.  Dave leading up The Pygmies Got Stoned (5.10a) on Elephant Rock to cap off the day.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 22 (Sun)
Partner: Scott Smith
New climbs: 10
Repeat climbs: 1
Total pitches climbed: 11

Day 4

Routes:
33. Funky Bolt, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Dave) The route has funky gear placements and a funky move near a funky bolt. I’d call it 5.9+ for sure. Super fun though.
34. Just Another Pretty Face, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.10d, sport (led by Dave) Brave lead to and over and along a lip, to a nice final face.
35. Tow Away Zone, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.10a, trad (led by Mick) Cruxy start to an I-could-hand-jam-up-this-for-miles crack.
36. Delay of Game, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.8, sport (led by Scott) Easy 5.8 face climbing with a nice position.
37. Batwings, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Scott) This popular moderate route stole a star from “Delay of Game” next door (both are 3 stars in the guide, but I’d give Batwings 4 of the 6 stars for its greater variety and challenge).
38. Deez Guys, Slabbage Patch, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Scott, Dave, and Mick) 5.6 jugs with 5.11 overhanging angle = 5.10a fun. The character of this route is a limestone climb, just with granite holds.
39. I Can’t Believe It, Slabbage Patch, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Mick and Dave) The route climbs a smooth brown and white mottled wall and goes through a roof. Heel hook!
40. Mystery Bolter, Transformer Corridor, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Scott) Up a slot to face climbing through dishes. This is a long route and the guide warns that two ropes are needed to descend – we busted out Scott’s 80m rope and were able to just make the rappel back down to the ground.
41. Chomping at the Bit, Transformer Corridor, 1p, 5.11a, sport-trad (led by Dave) Good stoppers in upper cracks. This was my favorite 5.11a we climbed at the City on this trip.
42. Bumblie Takes a Tumblie, Bumblie Rock, 1p, 5.11a, sport (led by Dave) Lots of big and dynamic moves, a good route to do while still fresh. Dave led this route in the full sun and after a full day of climbing, which was quite impressive.
Last Route. Wheat Thin, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph) This City Classic was the first climb of the trip and as we drove past Elephant Rock at the end of the day we decided it only appropriate that it also be our last. Scott had led it the first time, so I led it this time. A great route to end a great trip. I’ll be back to climb it again someday I’m sure.
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Parking Lot Rock is appropriately named.
b.  Dave on Just Another Pretty Face (10d). The crux is getting to, over, and along the lip above him in the photo.
c.  Dave at the 10a crux of Tow Away Zone, a great crack climb on Parking Lot Rock.
d.  The result of Dave forgetting his belay device and using carabiners and Munter hitches.
e.  Scott at the first bolt of Deez Guys (10a), a fun sport climb at Slabbage Patch.
f.  Scott climbing I Can't Believe it (10a), another fun sport climb at Slabbage Patch.
g.  Scott on the 10a roof of I Can't Believe It. The holds are good at the roof.
h.  Scott having fun at the start of Mystery Bolter (5.9) at Transformation Corridor.
i.  Dave leading Bumblie Takes a Tumblie (11a) at Bumblie Rock. An impressive lead in the direct sun and after a full day of climbing.
j.  On the drive out of the City we stopped and took a look at the 5.13 Le Boogyman on Treasure Rock. I'd love to see someone climb this.

More climbing fun!
Date: July 1 (Tue)
Partners: Scott Smith, Mick Wright, Dave
New climbs: 7
Total pitches climbed: 7

Day 5 (Bonus day!)

Routes:
When my 4.1-day City of Rocks adventure with Scott came to an end, I wasn't ready for it to be over. There were still so many routes to climb in the City! Plus I enjoyed hanging out with Scott and Mick and Dave. But I had other climbing adventures to pursue (namely, Lone Peak just out of Salt Lake City). But a week later, on my way out of Utah and back into Idaho (now headed towards the Sawtooths), I swung by City of Rocks found Scott, Mick, and Dave still there camped just where I'd left them a week previous! So I climbed another day at the City with them. Bonus!

43. Squall Line, Weather Wall, 1p, 5.10b, sport (led by Scott, Dave, and Mick) This climb was pretty sustained and I found it a bit tricky reading the moves.
44. High Pressure System, Weather Wall, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Scott, Dave, and Mick) A generic 10a sport climb.
45. Thunder Ridge, Weather Wall, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Dave and Mick) Varied moves with a non-sport-climb feel.
46. Storm Front, Weather Wall, 1p, 5.11b, sport (toprope) One crux move over a roof.
47. Yellow Wall, Yellow Wall, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Scott) A unique and classic stemming exercise up the steep, colorful face. Really fun!
48. Patina Turner, Yellow Wall, 1p, 5.11b, trad-sport (led by Dave) Technical moves up a steep and smooth granite face with incuts, with a mix of bolts and small pro.
49. King of Suede, Yellow Wall, 1p, 5.10c, trad (led by Mick) Gotta love crack climbs!
Photos:
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Photo descriptions:
a.  We amassed a painful collection of grass seeds on our socks on the 20 min approach to the Twin Sisters area.
b.  Scott stemming up Yellow Wall (5.9).
c.  Mick doing acrobatics during his rappel down Yellow Wall.

Intro

When the school year ends and I finish a marathon of grading, I am always anxious to climb. But mid-June weather is notoriously iffy in Washington. So where to go? The worthy candidates: Smith Rock (but for some reason I don't enjoy the climbing there), Yosemite (awesome but pretty long drive), or City of Rocks (super fun and reachable in a very long day of driving). So City of Rocks it was!

On this trip I climbed at the City of Rocks for 4 days with 2 new climbing partners, both whom I planned to join on future trips that summer. For the first 3 days, I climbed with Jeff Lodas. We enjoyed each other's company and climbed several of the 5.10-5.11 classic climbs in The City, such as Animal Cracker, Harvest, Thin Slice, Morning Glory, Double Cracks, Crack of Doom, and more.... On the 4th day, Terry Price and I climbed the 2 popular routes on Stienfell's Dome (Theatre of Shadows and Sinocranium). It was a fun and successful trip to The City. But so much yet to climb. I'll be back.

The following trip report summarizes the climbs I did on this trip to The City.

Photos / Climbs


More climbing fun!
Date: June 12 (Sun)
Partner: Jeff Lodas
Climbs: 5
Total pitches climbed: 9

Day 1

Routes:
1. Animal Cracker, Animal Cracker Rock, 1p, 5.10a, trad (led by Jeff) (climbed twice)
2. Harvest, Window Rock, 1p, 5.10d, trad (led by Jeff)
3. Reaper, Window Rock, 1p, 5.11c/d, trad (toprope)
4. Thin Slice, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.10a, trad (led by Steph) (climbed twice)
5. Morning Glory, Morning Glory Spire, 3p: 5.10a, 5.10d, 5.10b, sport (led by Jeff)
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Animal Cracker, one of the coolest flake features in the City. I had wanted to climb this route on my previous trip to the City, but we never got around to it. So, naturally, we climbed it as our first route.
b.  Midway up Animal Cracker.
c.  The upper section of Animal Cracker.
d.  Jeff leading Harvest. This is a quality route featuring mostly 5.9-10 climbing with the 10d crux just before the end.
e.  Looking up Reaper from the base. This route is short, but powerful (11c/d slanting tips layback).
f.  The east side of Window Rock as seen from Animal Cracker.
g.  Thin Slice on Window Rock.
h.  Looking up the second pitch (10d crux pitch) of Morning Glory. This was our last route of the day, since it began to pour as we rappelled the route.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 13 (Mon)
Partner: Jeff Lodas
Climbs: 8
Total pitches climbed: 12

Day 2

Routes:
6. No Cash Refunds, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph)
7. Lost Pioneers, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10a, trad (toprope first, then led by Jeff) (climbed twice)
8. Green Crack, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.11a, trad (led by Jeff)
9. Fred Rasmussen, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Steph) (climbed twice)
10. Double Cracks, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.10a/b, trad (led by Jeff and Steph) (climbed three times)
11. English Muffin, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Jeff)
12. Urban Renewal, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.11d, trad (toprope)
13. Two Bits, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.11a, sport (led by Jeff first, toprope second time)
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Upper Breadloves as seen from the water pump parking lot. The diagonal crack on the right is Lost Pioneers, which we climbed second of the day. The obvious crack to the top is Urban Renewal, which we climbed at the end of the day.  
b.  Jeff climbing No Cash Refunds, a pretty sustained and interesting 5.7 crack on the right side of Breadloaves North.
c.  Looking up the 10a corner of Lost Pioneers.
d.  Jeff leading Green Crack, a steep and sporty face above and left of the top of Lost Pioneers. This route is not in the guidebook.
e.  A close-up of Jeff leading Green Crack.
f.  Jeff climbing up the splitter hand crack on Fred Rasmussen. It widens to fists just before the finish.
g.  The awesome hand crack on Fred Rasmussen.
h.  Jeff leading Two Bits, a short sport route above Fred Rasmussen. It began to rain just after he pulled the crux, so he blazed to the top and then rappelled. Later that day we climbed this route again on toprope when rapping off the top of Upper Breadloves.
i.  Double Cracks on King on the Throne. This might have been my favorite route of the trip, so I climbed it three times. The polished start certainly felt like 10b, which is the mountainproject rating for the route (the guidebook gives it 10a).
j.  Looking up English Muffin. This is a 0-star route in the guidebook, so hence it is not climbed much. It's not all that bad of a route, but it's quite dirty and vegitated and rather spooky because of the lack of traffic.
k.  Climbing on English Muffin.
l.  The vegitated, dirty crack on English Muffin. There are better climbs in The City.
m.  Looking up Urban Renewal, which we toproped from the top of Upper Breadloves. The 11d crux is the section where the rope goes into in the photo.
n.  Evening light on the City from the top of Upper Breadloaves.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 14 (Tue)
Partner: Jeff Lodas
Climbs: 6
Total pitches climbed: 8

Day 3

Routes:
14. Skyline, Morning Glory Spire, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Steph)
15. Fall Line, Morning Glory Spire, 1p, 5.10b, sport (led by Jeff)
16. Crack of Doom, Morning Glory Spire, 1p, 5.11c, trad (led by Jeff) (climbed twice)
17. Lego, Building Blocks, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Terry)
18. Scraps, Building Blocks, 1p, 5.11a, sport (toprope) (climbed twice)
19. Later Day Saints, Building Blocks, 1p, 5.11a, sport (led by Jeff)
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Photo descriptions:
a.  Looking up Skyline, a popular route on Morning Glory Spire. I had climbed this route last time I was in the City of Rocks and it was worth climbing again as a nice warm-up to the day.
b.  Jeff leading Fall Line as a warm-up before tackling Crack of Doom.
c.  The famed Crack of Doom is just right of center in the photo.
d.  We found a handy stick at the base of Crack of Doom for a stick-clip of the pin. Most climbers end up doing this, to prevent an ankle twisting/breaking fall on the 11d crux start. Apparently the pin was replaced in 2011 after the previous one fell out.
e.  Looking up Crack of Doom from the base. The first 30 feet is the 11d section.
f.  Looking down the awesome hand-fist Crack of Doom.
g.  Jeff enjoying a toprope lap on Crack of Doom after an excellent lead of the route.
h.  Terry leading Lego on Building Blocks.
i.  The west side of Building Blocks. Terry is climbing Scraps in the photo.
j.  Looking up Scraps.
k.  Fun juggy plates near the top of Scraps.
l.  Later Day Saints (spelling as in guidebook) climbs the left-leaning system above the tree. Great sport route.
m.  Cool rock on Building Blocks.
n.  Taking a dip in Dufree Hotsprings in the nearby town of Almo after a day of climbing.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 15 (Wed)
Partner: Jeff Lodas
Climbs: 2
Total pitches climbed: 9

Day 4

Routes:
20. Theatre of Shadows, Jackson's Thumb, 4p, 5.7, sport (led by Steph)
21. Sinocranium, Stienfell's Dome, 5p, 5.8, sport (led by Steph)
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Photo descriptions:
a.  On the approach to Stienfell's Dome from the Circle Creek Overlook (< 30 minute hike from car to base of route).
b.  Looking down the 5.6 slab on Theatre of Shadows. This climb is bolted for the 5.6 leader.
c.  The nice vista of The City while climbing Theatre of Shadows.
d.  Terry at the top of Jackson's Thumb after climbing Theatre of Shadows. 
e.  Terry on the hanging rappel from the top of Jackson's Thumb (the descent requires two single-rope rappels (a 60m ropeis sufficient) down the NE side of the dome into the gully between Jackson's Thumb and Stienfell's Dome).
f.  When we got back to our packs after the climb, we encountered a queue of climbers at the base of Theatre of Shadows It was nice to be first in line on this route.
g.  Looking up Sinocranium on Stienfell's Dome from the base of the route. Since the first bolt is 20 feet above the ground it is easy to walk past the base of the route.
h.  Looking down Pitch 2 of Sinocranium. The climbing on this route is similar to Theatre of Shadows, but seems a bit harder and the bolts just a tad more spread out (although still comfortingly plentiful).
i.  Looking up at Pitch 4 on Sinocranium. This is the crux (5.8) of the route. It seems harder than 5.8 until you find the holds.
j.  Looking up at the party ahead of us on Pitch 4 Sinocranium.
k.  The steep juggy climbing on Pitch 4 of Sinocranium.
l.  Looking down while climbing the steep 5.8 crux Pitch 4 of Sinocranium.
m.  Looking up from the second rap anchor. (To descend from Stienfell's Dome, make two single-rope rappels (a 60m rope is sufficient) down the gully on the NE side of the dome.) 
n.  Climber on Felspfeiler (5.8) on the right side of Stienfell's Dome.
o.  Flowering cactus.
p.  Stienfell's Dome. Jackson's Thumb is on the left.

Intro

In June 2019, I moved from Bellingham, Washington to Boulder, Colorado, as I was to start a PhD in Applied Mathematics at CU Boulder in the Fall. After scoping out all of the moving options, I had decided that both the cheapest and easiest option was to move my stuff via a U-Pack moving container. But it would take about 10 days for U-Pack to get my stuff from Bellingham to Boulder, and I could make the 1,400-mile drive in 22 hours. Then it dawned on me that the route from Bellingham to Boulder passed right by City of Rocks, located at almost exactly the halfway point of the drive. It was the perfect opportunity to stop at the City of Rocks for a week to wait for my belongings to make it to Boulder.

I put the bug in the ear of my friend Braden in Bellingham, and it didn't take much convincing for him to join me for a week in the City. A bonus of the trip was that a few of my favorite people—Jorge and Joanne Urioste and Dow Williams—were at City for their annual trip there. In my typical fashion of doing the drive at night and at one push so as to maximize the climbing days, I squeezed in three days climbing with Dow before Braden arrived. Dow has climbed an impressive number of routes in the City, so we targeted more obscure routes he had yet to do, but most of them were quite good. It's always rewarding to find a 1-star route that actually deserves 3 stars. On the first day climbing with Dow, a climber named Will Maness joined us (more accurately, I joined Dow and Will), and I made a new climbing contact for some summer adventures. Awesome! Then Braden arrived, and we proceeded to climb 7.5 more days, climbing everything from classic 5.7-5.8 moderates to hard 5.11 clip-ups and cracks. We were climbing so many awesome routes a day that I got a bit overwhelmed with the idea of going through photos and writing up my list at the end of the trip that I began to make evening forays to a pullout about 15 minutes from Almo, where I tapped into a cell signal and hotspotted my way onto my website. Thanks Braden for putting up with my incessant need to record the day's adventures. And for being an awesome partner in general - I couldn't have gotten to my 100-route goal with anyone else!

All in all, I climbed for 10.5 days, racking up 106 routes and 125 pitches. What a trip!

The following trip report summarizes the climbs I did on this trip to The City.

Climbs / Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: June 15 (Sat)
Partners: Will Maness & Dow Williams
Climbs: 14
Total pitches climbed: 16

Day 1

Routes:
1. The Eviction, Eviction Crag, 1p, 5.10c, sport (led by Dow)
2. Carolyn in the City, Geowatt, 1p, 5.8, mixed (led by WIll)
3. Low Voltage Left, Geowatt, 1p, 5.7, sport (led by Will)
4. Never Leave Home Without It, Geowatt, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Will)
5. Geowatt Left, Geowatt, 1p, 5.10a, mixed (led by Will)
6. Geowatt Right, Geowatt, 1p, 5.10c, sport (toprope)
7. Continental Drift, Geowatt, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Will)
8. No Name Crack, Lion's Head, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Steph & Will)
9. Quartz Dike, Lion's Head, 1p, 5.11, toprope
10. Simba's Pride, Lion's Head, 1p, 5.10b, sport (led by Dow & Will)
11-12. Hakuna Matada Pitch 1 + Lion of Judah finish, Lion's Head, 2p, 5.9/5.10c, sport (led by Will)
13. Lion Cling, Lion's Head, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Dow & Will)
14. Dike of Gastonia, Stripe Rock, 3p, 5.7 R, mixed (led by Will)21. Sinocranium, Stienfell's Dome, 5p, 5.8, sport (led by Steph)
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 Photo descriptions:

DAY 1 (June 15)

1.  Starting off the day on The Eviction.
2.  Dow soloing Low Voltage Left.
3-4.  Will leading Geowatt Left while Dow enjoys a comfortable belay seat.
5.  Steph starting up Geowatt Right. The starting sequence seemed much harder than 10c. Perhaps a flake that used to be a good foot broke off....
6.  Fun patina climbing on Continental Drift.
7.  Steph Leading No Name Crack.
8.  Dow leading Simba's Pride.
9.  Will leading Hakuna Matada (with Lion of Judah finish)
10.  Dow leading Lion Cling.
11-13.  Will and I finished off the day with a climb of Dike of Gastonia on Stripe Rock. The only protection (besides for 2 bolts early on the first pitch) are slung horns. But the climbing is pretty easy. Such a cool feature!
14.  Sublime view of the City in the evening light, from the top of Stripe Rock.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 16 (Sun)
Partner: Dow Williams
Climbs: 10
Total pitches climbed: 12

Day 2

Routes:
15. Eye-Full Tower, Bracksiek's Pillar, 1-2p, 5.9, sport (led by Dow)
16. Mid-Eye Collision, Bracksiek's Pillar, 1p, 5.10b, mixed (led by Dow)
17. Rhonda's End (+last part of Penny's Lane), Bracksiek's Pillar, 2p, 5.9/10a, trad (P1 led by Steph, P2 led by Dow)
18. Eye-Gear Sanction, Bracksiek's Pillar, 1p, 5.10b, trad (led by Dow)
19. Sirens of Almo, Sailor Wall, 1p, 5.10a, mixed (led by Dow)
20. Ancient Mariner, Sailor Wall, 1p, 5.10d, mixed (led by Dow)
21. Nicely Nicely, Sailor Wall, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Steph)
22. Handsome Sailor Boy, Sailor Wall, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Dow)
23. Mano Izquierda, Bracksiek's Pillar, 2p, 5.8/5.10a, sport (P1 led by Steph, P2 led by Dow)
24. Chocolate Rib, Bracksiek's Pillar, 1p, 5.10a, mixed (led by Dow)
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DAY 2 (June 16)

1-2.  The crew (Dow, Joanne, Jorge, and Pepper) at Smoky Mountain Campground. Thanks so much J&J for letting me mooch a parking spot at your campsite each night! Awesome as always to hang out with these people.
3.  Approaching Bracksiek's Pillar in Castle Rocks State Park.
4.  Several signposts lead the way.
5.  Fun patina climbing on Eye-Full Tower.
6.  Dow stemming the start of Mid-Eye Collision.
7.  Offwidth at the top of Penny’s Lane, which we linked into the climb of Rhonda's End.
8.  Gaping chimneys on Comp Rock. I couldn't find route descriptions for these chimneys but I'd love to check them out.
9.  Party on top of Eye-Full Tower. Note the eye.
10.  Adventurous traverse across the top of Sailor Wall via the route Ncely Nicely. 
11.  A foothold broke off as I was leading Nicely Nicely, but I caught myself with my arm. The more scratches = the better the trip! 
 12.  Slab/face climbing on Handsome Sailor Boy.
13.  Bracksiek’s Pillar east side. We climbed two routes on this face to cap off another full day of climbing.
14.  Dow at the 10a crux on Pitch 2 of Mano Izquierda.
15.  Chocolate Rib.
16.  Comp Rock. I'd like to climb some routes on this wall.
17.  Sublime view out from Castle Rock State Park. 
18.  Dow looking like he belongs in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas. Love the shirt, glasses, and tape gloves combo!

More climbing fun!
Date: June 17 (Mon)
Partner: Dow Williams
Climbs: 9
Total pitches climbed: 9

Day 3

Routes:
25. Captain Pissgums, Checkered Demon, 1p, 5.10c, trad (led by Dow)
26. Ruby and the Dykes, Checkered Demon, 1p, 5.10a, trad (led by Dow)
27. Face Shot, Checkered Demon, 1p, 5.8, mixed (led by Dow)
28. Houser Arete, Checkered Demon, 1p, 5.10d, mixed (toprope)
29. Solo Mission to Pave Paradise, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.7/10b, trad/mixed (led by Dow)
30. No Parking, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.10c, trad (led by Dow)
31. Solstice, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Dow)
32. Road Rage, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Steph)
33. Giggles, Parking Lot Rock, 1p, 5.9, mixed (led by Dow)
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DAY 3 (June 17)

1-3.  Another morning with the crew (Dow, Joanne, Jorge, and Pepper) at Smoky Mountain Campground. Thanks so much J&J for letting me mooch a parking spot at your campsite each night! Awesome as always to hang out with these people.
4-5.  Captain Pissgums, quite a sporty 10c with some punchy moves off the ground.
6.  Ruby and the Dykes, a short crack climb with great movement. deserves more than one star.
7-8.  Exposed face climbing on Face Shot. Photo op!
9.  Burly start of Houser Arete.
10.  Parking Lot Rock, our afternoon destination. It faces west, but our first few routes were in the shade and then the breeze and scattered clouds helped keep temperatures manageable for the rest of the afternoon.
11-12.  No Parking, a 10c well deserving of it's 3-star rating.
13.  Some "20% afternoon thundershowers" cloud development on the horizon. No afternoon thundershowers developed, though.
14.  Road Rage, a nice moderate trad lead though interesting features.
15.  Enjoying the view from the top of Parking Lot Rock.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 18 (Tue)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 12
Total pitches climbed: 19

Day 4

Routes:
34. Zinger, Hostess Gully, 3p, 5.8, sport (led by Braden & Steph)
35. Twinkie, Hostess Gully, 2p, 5.10c, mixed (led by Braden)
36-38. Ryobi+Tiers of Joy+Sexcellent Pitch 3, Hostess Gully, 3p, 5.7/5.10c/5.8, sport/trad/sport (led by Stpeh & Braden)
39. Red Rib, Castle Rock , 1p, 5.10a, sport (led by Braden)
40. El Castleton, Castle Rock , 1p, 5.10d R, trad (led by Braden)
41. Das Boot, Castle Rock , 1p, 5.9, mixed (toproped by Steph only)
42. 13b (Pitch 1), Castle Rock , 1p, 5.9, sport (toproped by Steph only)
43. Get Your Fixe, Castle Rock , 1p, 5.7, sport (led by Steph)
44. Smiley Face, Castle Rock, 4p, 5.10a, mixed (led by Braden)
45. Hospitaliano, Castle Rock, 2p, 5.10c, sport/trad (led by Braden)
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 Photo descriptions:

DAY 4 (June 18)

1.  Approaching Hostess Gully.
2.  We started the day on Zinger, a popular 3-pitch 5.8 that climbs steep jugs and patina face.
3.  Braden having fun at the top of Zinger.
4.  Our next route was Twinkie, a 3-star 10c.
5.  Braden cruising up Twinkie.
6.  Looking down Ryobi.
7.  Hostess Gully is a popular place. There were over 20 people and at least 5 dogs, on a weekday.
8.  Braden campusing a jug on the start of Tiers of Joy. All that hangboarding is paying off!
9.  Braden done with his hangboarding warmup and off to the races on Tiers of Joy.
10.  View out from Hostess Gully.
11.  Braden staying hydrated in the summer heat.
12.  Red Rib is a popular 10a sport climb up the rib in the photo. This photo was taken on the approach in the morning, and we climbed this route a few hours after the photo was taken.
13.  Looking up Red Rib. 
14.  Starting up Red Rib. This route has an awesome position, and fun relatively-moderate climbing, so no surprise it is an area classic.
15.  Got to keep hydrating.
16.  El Castleton, a really good 10d trad route on Castle. It has an R rating for the initial section of climbing which doesn't have pro for about 20 feet of 5.9ish climbing.
17.  I toproped 13b from the rap of El Castleton. Remarkably soft for 13b!
18.  Steep block of rock on the top of Castle.
19.  When the sun baked us off the SW side of Cattle we hiked around to finish off the day with a couple of routes on the now-shady east face.
20.  Starting up Smiley Face, a fun 4 pitch route to the top of Castle Rock's East Face.
21.  Braden got a bit gripped on the juggy traverse at the start of Hospitalization,
22.  The dihedral on the Pitch 2 of Hospitaliano. We didn't bring a #3 or #4 so Braden had to run it out on 5.10 terrain. Nice way to keep your cool Braden!

More climbing fun!
Date: June 19 (Wed)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 12
Total pitches climbed: 12

Day 5

Routes:
46. Catwalk, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Braden)
47. Intruding Dike, Bloody Fingers Corridor, Breadloaves, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph)
48. Urban Renewal, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.11d, trad (led by Braden)
49-50. Fred Rasmussen + Two Bits, Upper Breadloaves, 2p, 5.8/5.11a, trad/sport (toproped by Steph only)
51. Interceptor, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.11a, trad (led by Braden)
52. Tide Country, Upper Breadloaves, 1p, 5.10a, trad (toproped by Steph only)
53. Destroy All Planets, Window Rock, 1p, 5.10a, trad (led by Steph)
54. Drunken Cowboy, Window Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph)
55. Crunk Cowgirl, Window Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (toproped by Steph only)
56. Pocket Rocket, Window Rock, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Braden)
57. Expect No Mercy, Window Rock, 1p, 5.10b/c, mixed (led by Braden)
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 Photo descriptions:

DAY 5 (June 19)

1-2.  Starting the day with Catwalk on the Breadloaves. Excellent route and a bit game on for 5.8.
3.  Bloody Fingers area. We planned on climbing Bloody Fingers after taking a lap on Intruding Dike, but by the time we got back to the ground another party was starting up Bloody Fingers. Fortunately both Braden and I had climbed Bloody Fingers before but we were disappointed not to climb it on this day.
4.  Intruding Dike, a fun laser-cut 5.7 splitter.
5-7.  Urban Renewal. Nice lead Braden!
8.  Taking a lap on Fred Rasmussen on the rappel back to the ground after climbing Urban Renewal.
9.  Interceptor, an overhanging 5.11a handcrack. Wow, what a climb! And awesome lead Braden!
10-11.  Steph having fun on Interceptor. Steep handcracks are one of my favorite kind of climbs. (Photos by Braden.)
12.  View from top of Window Rock.
13.  Buzzard Perch. Looks like some good climbing over there.
14.  Potholes on top of Window Rock.
15-16.  Window on top of Window Rock.
17.  Looking up at Destroy All Planets. How can you help but want to climb this crack splitting the face of Window Rock? I enjoyed this adventurous lead.
18.  Drunken Cowboy and Crunk Cowgirl. I lead one and toproped the other in less than 15 minutes, to get in a couple quick and fun romps up the rock.
19-21.  Pocket Rocket. The crux of this route is getting through the initial pockets to the first good piece of gear. It took us a bit of time of trying to fiddle in a piece to just give up on the gear and go for it. Fun route if you can get past the initial moves.
22.  We finished the awesome day on Expect No Mercy, a 50-foot 5.10b/c climb that starts up steep ledgy features and lends with a splitter fist crack.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 20 (Thu)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 11
Total pitches climbed: 11

Day 6

Routes:
58. Wheat Thin, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph)
59. Columbian Crack, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph)
60. Rye Crisp, Elephant Rock, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Braden)
61. Scream Cheese, The Anteater, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Braden)
62. Swiss Cheese, The Anteater, 1p, 5.7 R, sport (toproped by Steph only)
63. Velveeta, The Anteater, 1p, 5.8, toprope (toproped by Steph only)
64. She-Bop, The Anteater, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Steph)
65. Track Marks, The Anteater, 1p, 5.10a, trad (toproped by Steph only)
66. Redtail, Redtail Wall, Rabbit Rock SW, 1p, 5.11a, sport (led by Braden)
67. Sudden Pleasure, Redtail Wall, Rabbit Rock SW, 1p, 5.11b, sport (toproped by Steph only)
68. Seasonal Employment, Redtail Wall, Rabbit Rock SW, 1p, 5.11d, mixed (led by Braden)
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DAY 6 (June 20)

1-3.  Starting the day on Wheat Thin, an uber classic. This was the first route I ever climbed in the City, on my first trip in 2014. Worth doing again for sure! (Photo by Braden.)
4.  On top of Elephant Rock. Another beautiful morning!
5-9.  Columbian Crack, another uber-classic moderate at the City.
10-11.  Rye Crisp, a third uber-classic in a row. If we are counting stars, we are already at 12 stars for the day before 10am.
12.  Shadow climbing and a nice pegmatitic xenolith. I love the sun. But Braden is already getting overheated, so time to go find some shade....
13.  Pretty flowers.
14.  Anteater Rock. I took this photo alter in the day when it had sun on it. But it was shady when we climbed on it. The patina face has three fun sport climbs. I climbed them all.
15-16.  Braden leading Scream Cheese.
17-18.  She-Bob, a nice little crack climb to the left of the patina face on Anteater Rock. Probably ignored for the more popular Scream Cheese and Swiss Cheese, but worth doing. (Photo 17 by Braden.)
19.  Redtail Wall on Rabbit Rock. This is where we ended the day, with three hard 5.11 routes. The wind was really raging by now so it was nice to go back into the sun.
20.  Braden leading Redtail, a popular 11a sport route. A nice long 40m pitch. Onsight by Braden! (And he had started off the day saying it was going to be a rest day for him....but the awesome granite kind of put the kibosh on that idea.)
21.  While Braden rested for another 5.11 lead,  toproped Sudden Pleasure, an 11b just left of Redtail.
22.  Braden's finger taping job.
23-24.  We ended off the day on Seasonal Employment, an 11d. Another onsight lead by Braden. Awesome job Braden! 
25.  Should have taped the finger tips too! Some sharp edges on Seasonal Employment. Going to have to stick to jug hauls and hand cracks tomorrow....good thing the City has plenty of that.
26.  Parking Lot Rock west side. Lots of good climbs over there.
27.  Morning Glory Spire. Lots of good climbs over there too. Of course.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 21 (Fri)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 11
Total pitches climbed: 11

Day 7

Routes:
69. White Flake, Provo Wall, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Steph)
70. Finer Niner, Provo Wall, 1p, 5.9, sport (led by Braden)
71. Greater Eighter, Provo Wall, 1p, 5.8, trad (toproped by Steph only)
72. Triple Roofs, Provo Wall, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Braden)
73. Tennish Anyone?, Provo Wall, 1p, 5.10a, mixed (toproped by Steph only)
74. Dead Bird Crack (AKA Humbles Tumbles), Provo Wall, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Braden)
75. Sabbatical, Provo Wall, 1p, 5.10c, mixed (led by Braden)
76. Carol's Crack, Decadent Wall, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Steph)
77. Divine Decadence, Decadent Wall, 1p, 5.9, trad (toproped by Steph only)
78. Another Greg Lowe Route (AKA Preteen Sex), Decadent Wall, 1p, 5.8+, trad (led by Steph)
79. Sex, Drugs, and Rock & Roll, Decadent Wall, 1p, 5.11a, sport (led by Braden)
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DAY 7 (June 21)

1-2.  White Flake, which follows a white corner with some cool features.
3.  Triple Roofs. 
4-6.  Dead Bird Crack (AKA Humbles Tumble). The guidebook mentioned that this route was "originally rated 5.9d" and would seem a "hike for Yosemite regulars" so we expected a sandbag 5.9. But indeed it was a hike. Quite a fun hike!
7.  Carol's Crack. A classic City 5.8 crack.
8.  Another Greg Lowe Route. This is a rather adventurous lead following a cool dike feature.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 22 (Sat)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 6
Total pitches climbed: 13

Day 8

Routes:
80. Red Corner, Comp Wall, 2p, 5.10a, trad (led by Steph)
81. Comp Splitter, Comp Wall, 2p, 5.11a, trad (led by Braden)
82. Red Corner Pitch 1 + Companeros, Comp Wall, 2p, 5.10a/5.10c, trad/sport (led by Braden)
83. Shop and Compare, Comp Wall, 2-3p, 5.10a, sport (led by Braden)
84. La Vida, Comp Wall, 3p, 5.9, mixed (led by Steph and Braden)
85. Shake 'n Flake, Comp Wall, 1p, 5.10c, trad (led by Braden)
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DAY 8 (June 22)

1.  Braden doing some stretching at the trailhead before we launched into the best day of climbing of the trip so far. We were both climbing strong, Braden especially so. That stretching must help!
2.  Comp Wall. Perhaps the best rock in the entire City of Rocks area.
3-5.  Our first route of the day was Red Corner, which follows the obvious corner feature for two pitches of 10a climbing. The climbing reminded me of climbing on Mithral Dihedral on Mt. Russell in the Sierra.
6-10.  After our Red Corner warm-up, we decided to climb the route we had most wanted to climb: Comp Splitter, a 2-pitch 11a steep splitter that is perhaps the best splitter crack climb in the City.
11.  Braden racking up at the base of Comp Wall.
12-13.  Braden climbing the exposed juggy face of Companeros. Nice lead Braden - this route was as cryptic as it was awesome.
14-15.  Shop and Compare, a 3-pitch 10a that climbs the steep patina face for 260 feet. Braden the leading machine linked all three pitches into one massive lead with our 80m rope!
16-20.  La Vida, a 3-pitch 5.9 starting with a trad pitch and ending with bolted steep juggy patina. The first pitch of this route (which I led) marked the 100th pitch of the trip for me!
21-23.  More views from Comp Wall. The setting is sublime.
24-25.  When we rapped down after climbing La Vida, we rapped right over the wild flake feature of Shake 'n Flake. We couldn't help but climb it.  It's a bit of a heady and pumpy lead, but Braden cruised up it as usual.
26.  A pile of sticky guano on Shake 'n Bake. Fortunately the climbing goes just right of this.
27-28.  Comp Wall. This was the site of a climbing competition in 1989.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 23 (Sun)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 9
Total pitches climbed: 9

Day 9

Routes:
86. Z-Cracks, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Steph)
87. Jug World / Crack World, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.9, trad (toproped by Steph only)
88. Stan's Roof, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.10c, trad (toproped by Steph only)
89. Snakes and Ladders, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.9, trad (toproped by Steph only)
90. Groovy Crack, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.10b, trad (toproped by Steph only)
91. Groovy Toprope, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.10, toprope (toproped by Steph only)
92. The Awakening, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.11a, trad (toproped by Steph only)
93. Water Groove, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.10 R, trad (toproped by Steph only)
94. Double Cracks, King on the Throne, 1p, 5.10a/b, trad (toproped by Steph only)
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Photo descriptions:

DAY 9 (June 23)

1.  An Idaho traffic jam.
2.  Braden enjoying the restful Sunday. We took a rest day. Braden succeeded but I failed when Braden was willing to belay me up 9 pitches that afternoon. But at least they were short roadside pitches and squeezed into just a few hours, so it was sort of a rest day.
3.  Z-Cracks, a short but stout 5.9 trad climb.
4.  Jug World  / Crack World. Just as fun as it sounds. But too short.
5-6.  Stan's Roof, a short but powerful 10c. 10c seems more than a notch above 10b at the City.
7.  Snakes and Ladders.
8.   My awesome belayer Braden. Thanks again Braden for belaying me up all of these pitches. You did it - avoided the temptation to climb and blow the rest day!
9.  Groovy Crack.
10.  The Awakening. 
11-12.  Water Groove. This unique route climbs the water grove feature. There is actually pretty good pro in the back of the crack.
13.  Double Cracks. I had climbed this on a previous trip to the City, but when I rapped past it I couldn't help but give it another lap.
14.  Steph recording the climbs for the day. Thanks Braden for belaying me on your rest day so I could get closer to my goal of 100 routes in one trip. At 94 now, only 6 more to go!

More climbing fun!
Date: June 24 (Mon)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 10
Total pitches climbed: 10

Day 10

Routes:
95. BLM Crack, BLM Corridor, 1p, 5.9, trad (led by Braden)
96. Where Rangers Retire, BLM Corridor, 1p, 5.10c, sport (toproped by Steph only)
97. Do Rangers Dream of Electric Sheep?, BLM Corridor, 1p, 5.10d, mixed (led by Braden)
98. The Ranger's a Psycho, BLM Corridor, 1p, 5.10d, mixed (toproped by Steph only)
99. Scene of the Crime, BLM Corridor, 1p, 5.11a, sport (led by Braden)
100. Good Enough for Government Work, BLM Corridor, 1p, 5.10d, mixed (toproed by Steph only)
101. Smitty's Direct (all the way to the top of Bulldog Rock), Bulldog Rock, 1p, 5.10, trad (led by Braden)
102. Hesitation Blues, Rabbit Rock, 1p, 5.7, trad (led by Steph)
103. Roadkill, Rabbit Rock, 1p, 5.10b, mixed (toproped by Steph only)
104. Terror of Tiny Town, Buzzard Perch, 1p, 5.11a, trad (led by Braden)
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 Photo descriptions:

DAY 10 (June 24)

1-2.  We spent the first half of the day at BLM Corridor in the Twin Sisters area. This was a new area to check out. The routes here were short but powerful.
3.  Braden shoeing up in the notch below BLM Crack for the first pitch of the day.
4-6.  BLM Crack.
7.  Do Rangers Dream of Electric Sheep?, a steep climb that connects a network of crack systems diagonaling rightward across the face. Nice lead Braden!
8.  Looking up Scene of the Crime, a high-quality 11a sport route.
9-12.  After BLM Corridor we climbed one route at nearby Bulldog Rock called Smitty's Direct. This follows a diagonal crack across the face. We continued up to the summit, which was a cool way to finish the pitch. The climb is rated 10a, but because of the gritty rock (from lack of travel) it seems a bit harder.
13.  Gotta love the yellow totem.
14.  On top of Bulldog Rock. Fun to get a summit!
15.  #4 placement.
16.  South and North Sister. These rocks are closed to climbing, which is unfortunate since the 400-foot faces look to hold some awesome lines. 
17.  Closer up view of North Sister.
18.  Closer up view of South Sister.
19-20.  Next we went to the NE side of Rabbit Rock for a couple of climbs in the shade. This area has a super comfortable belay slot.
21-22.  Hesitation Blues, a super fun 5.7 crack lead. Second photo by Braden.
23-24.  Topping out on Hesitation Blues.
25-26.  Roadkill, a crack system just right of Hesitation Blues that shares the same anchor.
27-36.  Our last climb of the day was Terror of Tiny Town, a 4-star 11a crack climb we had been talking about doing all week. It was indeed worthy of all of its stars. Awesome lead by Braden. In the sun too!
37.  View of Rabbit Rock and Window Rock from Buzzard Perch.

More climbing fun!
Date: June 25 (Tue)
Partner: Braden Downey
Climbs: 2
Total pitches climbed: 3

Day 10.5

Routes:
105. Corridor Crack, The Boxtop, 1p, 5.8, trad (led by Steph)
106. Boxtop Traverse, The Boxtop, 3p, 5.9, trad (led by Steph and Braden)
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 Photo descriptions:

DAY 11 (June 25)

1.  Pretty flowers on the approach to The Boxtop.
2-3.  In the cool corridor at the base of Corridor Crack.
4-6.  Corridor Crack. The first pitch of the Boxtop Traverse.
7-10.  Pitch 2 of the Boxtop Traverse traverses about 270° around the base of the summit block. From the anchor at the end of the pitch, you can peer around the corner and see your belayer at the start of the pitch. Not every day where you climb a full pitch and end up 20 feet from your belayer!
11.  Pitch 3 is a short pitch up patina jugs to the top. Kind of committing with awesome exposure.
12-16.  On top! A summit to cap off an awesome climbing trip!

List of Climbs I've done in the City of Rocks

LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

Previous and Next Adventures

Trip Report 1

Deer Ridge Buttress (Nun's Buttress), CO
MacGregor Slab (Camel Toe), CO

Trip Report 2

The Grand Wall and other climbs in Squamish, BC
Morning Star Peak (Mile High Club), WA

Trip Report 3

Memorial Day weekend at Skaha, BC
2 Days of cragging in Turkey Rocks, CO

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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