It had been over two months since I packed my Subaru full of climbing and photography gear and drove south out of Bellingham. My first destination had been
City of Rocks in Idaho, and I had no plans after that other than to find good rock, good partners, and good weather. And hopefully make a good summer out of it. It turned out to be a spectacular summer. Over the course of three months, I strung together a series of climbing adventures: from the City of Rocks I drove down to Salt Lake City to climb for a few days in
Lone Peak Cirque, then it was back up to Idaho for a week at
Elephant's Perch, then to wild Wyoming for a week in the
Cirque of the Towers followed by a few days at
Devil's Tower, then an impromptu trip to Colorado to climb in
Rocky Mountain National Park and
Eldorado Canyon, and then back to Wyoming to climb some harder routes in the
Cirque of the Towers, and finally an invitation by my Cirque climbing partner Dow to come down to his place in southwest Utah and climb "locally" with him, mostly in
Zion and also a couple of days at
Red Rocks. Time flew by, and soon it was a week into September, and I needed to be home soon to start preparing my lecture materials for the upcoming Fall Quarter of teaching. I put the bug in Dow's ear about climbing some desert towers near Moab on my way home....
(A little bit about climbing in the Moab area: There is a lifetime of climbing in this area. To the west are the sandstone cliffs of Island in the Sky in Canyonlands National Park. To the east are the cliffs and towers along River Road, the Wingate spires of Castle Valley, and the (in)famous Fisher Towers. To the north is the sandstone wonderland of Arches National Park. And to the south is the world-class crack climbing of Indian Creek. The rock is all sandstone, but there is a wide range of types: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more.) | A map of Moab-area desert tower climbs I put together for the summitpost page for this area. |
I had been compelled in particular by the desert towers, which are hauntingly beautiful and have unique and interesting routes to their tops. I'd never climbed a desert tower. So Dow and I made plans to climb for four days (Sept 9-12) in the Moab area before I continued my long drive back home to Washington. However, the day before we planned on beginning our Moab climbing trip, a wide-spread thundershower system passed through the West, dumping record-breaking 1-3 inches of rain in some areas and also causing flash flooding in several locations (a 50 mile stretch of I-15 north of Las Vegas sustained enough flood damage to be closed for days). Plus, the storms saturated the sandstone all over the state. We would have to wait a couple of days until the sandstone dried enough to climb. I was under a tight schedule to get home soon, so this reduced our climbing window to two days (Sept 11-12), or potentially two and a half days if I made the 20+ hour drive home in one shot instead of spread over two days. We'd just have to make good use of our two and a half days.
By the time the thundershowers started, I had actually already arrived in Moab, and the plan had been to regroup with Dow the following evening. But since we were now delayed by the rain, I had an extra couple of days in the area, which I planned to spend working away the (very nice) library in Moab. But when the rain stopped on the morning of the 9th, I got progressively antsy to be out climbing, despite the wet rock. I made a partner post on MountainProject looking for a partner for the 10th.
Local climber Karl Kelley responded to my post. Karl and his wife own the Desert Bistro in Moab, and he had recently published a guidebook for the area "High On Moab." In addition to this, Karl is a really nice guy. So Karl was a great partner for my first climb in the area. We climbed the North Chimney (3-4p, 375', 5.9) route on Castleton, a quintessential desert tower climb located in Castle Valley. (Amazingly, the route wasn't even wet despite the fact that that side of the tower does not get a whole lot of sun.) Over the course of the morning, I picked Karl's brain for beta on other climbs in the area, and by the end of the morning I had a tick-list of climbs several times longer than Dow and I could accomplish in the next two and a half days....
Dow arrived in Moab that evening and we proceeded to climb the next two and a half days. The first day, we drove out to Island in the Sky in the northern reaches of Canyonlands National Park and climbed the Dunn Route (4-5p, 600', 5.11-) on Moses, which is a 600' tower that looks remarkably like its namesake. It was such a wild and remote area to climb, accessible only by a couple of hours of driving along rough 4WD roads. The second day, Dow and I climbed another wild route: Cooler than Jesus (3p, 300', 5.10) on the Top of the World Overlook, accessed by driving for a few hours on an even rougher road than the day before and rappelling off the edge of the cliff into a gaping abyss and then climbing back up on some pretty steep and committing terrain. The third and final day, I could only climb the morning, so Dow and I climbed two short and fun roadside routes in Arches National Park: the Right Chimney (2p, 150', 5.10+) on The Three Penguins and the nearby El Segundo (2p, 150', 5.9+) near the canyon entrance of River Road.
This page provides a trip report for my four fun days of climbing near Moab—a little desert dessert to cap off a full summer of climbing. Thanks Karl and Dow for some great desert climbing memories.