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1. The view up Mountaineer's Creek on the approach on Stuart Lake trail. Argonaut on left, Sherpa on right. 2. At the point where the climbers' trail up Mountaineer's Creek cuts off the main trail to Stuart Lake. Took us 1:05 to get here from the car but we were moving pretty fast on the way in (on the way out, it took us longer—1:18—since there were quite a few people on the trail and we did not jog at all). 3. Looking up at Sherpa Glacier. This is the most common north side descent in the early summer. Most of the parties on the route with us were planning on going down this way. A couple more weeks of summer weather, and this descent route would become much more difficult. 4. Looking up at the Ice Cliff Glacier. Some large chunks calved off as we were climbing. 5. Jon scrambling the 3rd-4th class steps up to the base of the roped climbing. 6. Beginning Pitch 1. The first three pitches of the route are 5.8-5.9 terrain so we roped up. We had planned on linking the first two pitches but instead we linked all three pitches into one long pitch with about 20 m of simulcimbing. There were 8 parties on the route that day (welcome to a Fifty Crowded Classic on a sunny summer Saturday!), so this helped us get to the head of the pack quickly. 7. Climbing on Pitch 2 (5.8). Our rope is the red rope. 8. The 5.9 thin hands crack on Pitch 3. Our rope is the red rope. The climbers of the green rope were graciously letting us pass them; unfortunately, they crossed over our rope a couple of times rather than staying below our rope, resulting in a bit of a tangle to weave through. (Just above this section my ice axe got tangled up as I tried to weave in and out of the green rope. My foot slipped as I was struggling to free myself, and I caught myself but felt something give in the area just in front of my armpit. The entire rest of the climb I was in quite a bit of pain. A visit to the doctor later that week would confirm a badly strained intercostal muscle and I ended up unable to climb for nearly 3 weeks.) 9-10. Above the first three pitches on the lower North Ridge, we unroped and soloed until the Gendarme. This is about 1600 feet of 3rd to 5.6 climbing. There is definitely some no-fall terrain. My pain caused me to move even more gingerly than usual. 11-12. As we got higher on the ridge, we encountered more and more snow patches. We had hoped to find running water, but nothing was flowing well enough to collect liquid water. 13. Looking back down the ridge. The pair of climbers in the photo nearly kept up with us even though we were soloing. The rest of the parties we had passed we never saw again. 14. Looking back down the ridge. What a spectacular position! 15-16. Soloing on the upper North Ridge, getting closer to the Gendarme. 17. A fun slab on the ridge. The Gendarme looms above. 18. A short knife-edge section. 19. On the final stretch before the Gendarme. 20. There is a bolted rap anchor at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. 21. Looking over at the "easier" route that allows you to bypass the Gendarme. Not really a good option in early summer! (Anyway, the Gendarme is such good alpine climbing with great position that it would be a shame to bypass it anyway, even in the later season when the bypass slopes are dry.) 22. Looking back down the ridge from the base of the Gendarme. As evidenced by the photo, the stretch of climbing/belaying on the Gendarme is shady and chilly until afternoon. We put on our down jackets here, whereas up to this point I had been comfortable in a t-shirt. 23. Looking up Pitch 1 of the Gendarme. The climbing is a 5.9 layback but the crack and left wall were wet and somewhat icy, making the climbing a bit more challenging. This is an easy pitch to haul packs on, so that is what we did. Jon tackled the somewhat icy layback in approach shoes, hardly batting an eye. 24. Looking up the 5.9 handcrack/lieback on Pitch 1 of the Gendarme. 25. Jon leading Pitch 2 of the Gendarme. This climbs a 5.9 fist-crack/offwidth. We did not haul our packs on this pitch since it is a longer and more devious pitch. Another excellent lead by Jon. 26. Climber coming up Pitch 1 with the North Ridge streching below him. 27. Climber at the nice belay perch at the top of Pitch 1. 28. A fixed #4 cam in the fist-crack/offwidth on Pitch 2 of the Gendarme. There was also a fixed #1 cam near the beginning of Pitch 2 and a #3 cam in Pitch 1 (I had almost gotten the #3 cam out by the time my "5 minute rule" ran out, so I don't think the #3 will stay fixed much longer). 29. Rime ice inside the fist-crack/offwidth on Pitch 2. 30. A view of Sherpa Peak (and Sherpa Balanced Rock) in the clouds. 31. Not long after the Gendarme there is the final steep section. We climbed up the aesthetic cracks in the photo, which are 5.7-5.8. Because of the steepness we roped up for this short pitch. Apparently you can also bypass this section by climbing around it. 32. A cool tower on the upper North Ridge. 33. As we neared the top, there was more and more snow to deal with between the rock. 34. Jon approaching the summit! 6 and a half hours after we started up! |
Photos | Photo descriptions |
35. On the scramble between the summit and the col above Sherpa Glacier. I think this slope is at the head of Ulrich's Couloir. We were surprised at the lack of snow on these slopes, but I guess it is the south side. The scramble to the col above the Sherpa Glacier feels mellow after climbing the North Ridge. 36. We found a pool of rainwater on a boulder. We had not found any running water on the North Ridge; in fact, we did not find any running water on the entire ridge between the summit and Sherpa Pass (on the other side of Sherpa) the next day. Meltwater from all of the snowpatches must just seep into the ground. 37. We had to cross a couple of snowfields en route to the col above Sherpa Glacier. The snow was firm enough that we were happy for our aluminum crampons. I had a lightweight axe too and was happy to have it on the snow. Jon had only his bare fingers (no axe or gloves!). 38. Looking ahead at the terrain between us and Sherpa Peak (our next destination). The col above the Sherpa Glacier is the low point in the ridge before Sherpa. 39. Looking down the Sherpa Glacier from the col. The snow looked a bit steep and icy, but there was still enough of it to make this a reasonable descent route. Most of the parties on the route with us that day had come in via Mountaineer's Creek and were planning to descend this way. 40. Looking towards Sherpa Peak from the col. The large tower in the foreground on the right is an obvious landmark for the start of the Sherpa Glacier descent. |
Photos | Photo descriptions |
41. On the way over to Sherpa, I popped a coffee Nips in my mouth and the next thing I knew I was spitting out a couple of tooth fragments and inspecting a piece of candy with a crown imbedded in it. Compared to my other injury, this seemed like a minor inconvenience. So I gave a sarcastic chuckle, plucked the crown out of the candy, popped the candy in my mouth, and shoved the crown in my pocket. We continued onwards towards Sherpa. 42. Looking up the west side of Sherpa. We climbed the West Ridge route, or at least our variation of it. The Cascade Alpine Guide rates it at 5.5, and for the most part we kept it at this grade. The climbing is blocky and the rock is generally good and it seems like there are several route options. 43. Climbing one of the steeper sections on the West Ridge. This crack seemed more like 5.7 so perhaps the "real" route goes off left a bit of this. 44. We found lots of flakes and boulders slung with tat on this climb. We suspect that the West Ridge is more often done as a descent by parties who climb up the North Ridge. 45. We found a pair of climbing shoes a climber had probably accidentally left when they took a break on a ledge. The shoes looked like they had been up there at least one winter. 46. Climbing on the West Ridge. 47. A ledge traverse on the West Ridge route. This ledge traverse is mentioned in the route description in the Cascade Alpine Guide. 48. On the summit of Sherpa Peak! It took us about 1 hour to get there from the base. We never roped up. 49. The balanced rock (from the west). I have always wanted to climb the balanced rock, but today wasn't the day. The description from the Cascade Alpine Guide: "Shoulder stand or rope throw over a pedestal point gains the E side pedestal, then, with bolt protection, frictioning gains the top. Class 5.7." Sounds wild! 50. Mt. Stuart as seen from the summit of Sherpa Peak. 51. Rainier in the distance to the south, as seen from the summit of Sherpa Peak. 52. We descended via the South Gully, which is a 3rd-4th class scramble. 53. A splitter offwidth on Sherpa alongside the South Gully route. Wonder if anyone has ever had the time/motivation to climb it? |
Photos | Photo descriptions |
54-55. From Sherpa Peak we continued heading eastward towards Sherpa Pass. The original plan had been to traverse over Argonaut, Colchuck, and Dragontail, but with my injury it was looking likley we would just descend back into Mountaineers Creek via Sherpa Pass. The terrain between Sherpa and Sherpa Pass was mostly just 3rd class, with some cool passageways through notches in the ridge. 56. Argonaut. 57. Just before 8pm, we found a bivy site that was too good to pass up. It would have been possible to make it to Sherpa Pass and get down into Mountaineers Creek before dark and head out to the car via headlight, but there is something appealing about spending a night high on a ridge in the North Cascades (we had hauled bivy gear up here, after all!). Also, I had the crazy hope that my injury would dissipate overnight and we could continue the traverse across Argonaut, Colchuck, and Dragontail. (This photo was taken in the morning.) 58. Morning light on the east side of Stuart, as seen from our bivy site. 59. Continuing the traverse between our bivy site and Sherpa Pass. Argonaut in the distance. 60. Looking down the mellow snow field from Sherpa Pass. My pain was even worse today so we decided it was best to head out, especially when we saw how mellow this descent was going to be. 61. Descending the mellow snow slopes towards Mountaineer Creek. This descent is an excellent option for parties wanting to avoid the Sherpa Glacier in later season. It takes a bit longer to get to Sherpa Pass, but it would be possible to get out this way in one day, especially if you did not climb Sherpa Peak en route. Or climb Sherpa Peak too, all the better. 62. Looking back up at Sherpa Pass (left) and Sherpa Peak (right). 63. After coming down from Sherpa Pass, I decided to add this as another possible north side descent route to my map of approaches and descents to the North Ridge of Stuart (see my note on "Approach-Exit Dilemma at the beginning of this page). 64. Back at the Stuart Lake / Colchuck Lake trailhead, one of the busiest trailheads on a sunny summer weekend. Cars were parked about 0.25 mile down the road. |