Photos: | Photo Descriptions: 1. Getting to the Big Sandy Opening trailhead entails a couple of hours of driving along well-graded dirt roads. 2. Starting the hike. 6 easy miles to Big Sandy Lake, then just a couple of more miles into the Deep Lake Valley. 3. Hiking around the right (east) side of Big Sandy Lake (you can either leave the main trail at the south or north end of the lake, but it is shorter to leave the trail at the south end of the lake and take a path around the east side). 4. Sign marking the trail to Clear Lake. This is a good trail. The trail actually continues up and over Temple Pass so it receives a lot of thru traffic as well. 5. Haystack rising above Clear Lake. This is about an hour (or less) from the turnoff at Big Sandy Lake. 6. On the slabs between Clear Lake and Deep Lake. Warbonnet in background. 7. View from the north end of Deep Lake, looking towards Steeple Peak and Lost Temple Spire / East Temple Peak at the head of the valley. There are plenty of options for camping here. 8. We camped at the head of the valley at the south end of Deep Lake. 9. This photo is taken looking north from camp. Evening light on the Southern Wall of Haystack. 10. This photo is taken looking south from camp. Evening light on Steeple Peak and Lost Temple Spire / East Temple. Note about camping: Climbers have the option of camping at Clear Lake (lower and closer, sheltered in the trees, right below Haystack), Deep Lake (higher and further, more open views, right below Steeple and Lost Temple), or the slabs between (good compromise). We chose to camp at the head of the valley at the far end of Deep Lake, and were rewarded with awesome views and quiet camping (had the place to ourselves). |
Photos: | Photo descriptions: | ||
Approach | 3rd class grassy ledges from basin below | 1. Approaching the North Ridge from Deep Lake. There are lots of 3rd class ledges and multiple variations to getting to the base of the route by going up these ledges. 2. At the base of the north ridge is a memorial plaque for Ryan Sayers, who was hit by lightning while climbing this route in 2003. Based on the plaque, I think he liked math (although I am still trying to figure out the meanings of the fractions on the plaque). | |
Pitch 1 | 5.8 | 3. The roped climbing begins at the base of a crack that extends 140 feet up the ridge's west side to the shoulder above. I started the pitch here, although I think you can scramble up a bit higher from the left and start at the crack shown the next photo. 4. This is the official start of Pitch 1. You can start up either crack. The left start is 5.9 and the corner on the right is 5.8. I went left. | |
Pitch 2 | 5.8 | 5. From a belay on the shoulder, ascend a trough on the ridge's west side to a pair of cracks that lead up the shoulder of the ridge again. | |
Pitch 3 | 5.7 | 6. The Great North Chimney on the upper north ridge of Steeple. From the top of Pitch 2, scramble about 300 feet of 3rd class to the base of the chimney at the start of Pitch 3. 7. Looking up from the base of the chimney. (I chose the direct option to access the chimney via a dihedral from below rather than ascending cracks from the right). 8. Jeff chimneying to the chockstone belay. Only the last 10 feet or so of this pitch involve any chimneying. | |
Pitch 4 | 5.6 | 9. This pitch tunnels through the chimney 40-50 feet and then heads up about 20 feet to a break in the ceiling and a ledge. 10. Looking up from the end of the tunneling section. 11. The ledge at the top of Pitch 4. | |
Pitch 5 | 5.9 (or 4th) | 12. The easier (4th) finish to the route is to climb under this flake to the north, around and onto the top of it, and up to the summit plateau. 13. The harder (5.9) but better option is to climb cracks in the summit block right of the leaning flake. 14. Jeff on the corner pitch to the top. This is an excellent way to finish the route. Highly recommended over the 4th class option. | |
Summit | Awesome views. | 15. View to the south. Lost Temple Spire / East Temple as seen from Steeple Peak. 16. View to the east. "Little El Capitan" (center) and Wind River Peak (on right). 17. View to the north. Ridgeline extending towards Southern Wall of Haystack. Cirque of the Towers in distance. Deep Lake below. 18. Lake in the basin below to the east. Looks like a sitting cat or a howling wolf or something. | |
Descent | South Ridge (3-4 single-rope raps, 3rd class scramble) | 19. The descent is down the south ridge. I think we did 3 short rappels and scrambling to the Steeple-Lost Temple Spire col, and from there 3rd class scrambling down ledges back to Deep Lake. |
Photos: | Photo descriptions: | ||
Approach | Easy scramble up grassy slopes to base of whatever start you chose to access corner. | no photos | |
Pitch 1 | 4th-5.2 | 1-2. There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch. | |
Pitch 2 | 5.9 (crux pitch) | 3. At the base of the awesome corner. There was a party ahead of us (John and Karl from Casper, WY). The crux of the route is just above the climber (Karl) in the photo; this a short power layback section getting over the roof. There is a good belay stance about 30 feet above the roof. 4. Jeff following the first corner pitch. | |
Pitch 3 | 5.9 | 5. Looking up the second corner pitch. Just more fun and sustained 5.8-5.9 climbing. | |
Pitch 4 | 5.8 | 6. Looking up Pitch 4, an arching right-facing corner. This grassy area is the best belay spot and the one alluded to in most route descriptions. We had belayed about 20 feet too early. | |
Pitch 5 | 5.6 | 7. The entrance to the chimney system on the final pitch. It is possible to access the chimney by climbing this corner/face or by going up a ramp to the left. 8. Looking up the chimney. Pretty easy climbing. | |
"Summit" | Route ends on the long ridge of Haystack. | 9. At the top of the route, a short 3rd class scramble to the summit ridge. 10. On the long summit ridge of Haystack. The route tops out more on a high ridge of the Haystack massive than on a specific summit itself. Clear Lake below and the Cirque of the Towers in the distance. The entrance to the Grassy Goat trail is down the slope in the photo. 11. Zoomed in on the Cirque of the Towers to the north. Left to right: Warbonnet, Shark's Nose, Overhanging Tower, Wolf's Head, Bollinger Peak, Pingora. | |
Descent | Grassy Goat Trail | see photos from climb of Minor Dihedral |
Photos: | Photo Descriptions: 1. Morning sun cresting over the north ridge of Steeple Peak. This photo was taken at 8:40am, which is around the time the sun hits the north end of Deep Lake in late August (a couple of hours after sunrise). 2-5. Morning sun on the Cirque of the Towers, as seen looking northward over Deep Lake. 6. An afternoon storm hitting the Cirque. The weather is typically a tad better at Deep Lake, and more than once we had clear skies while clouds were building around the Cirque. 7. Evening colors over the Cirque. 8-11. Steeple Peak and Lost Temple Spire / East Temple as seen from the north end of Deep Lake. We camped at the south end. 12. Close up on the north ridges of Steeple and Lost Temple Spire. The North Ridge of Steeple (which we climbed) is a well-deserved area classic. A route called Separation Anxiety (11a) ascends the north prow of Lost Temple; I definitely want to come back and climb this route. 13-15. Evening alpenglow on Steeple and Lost Temple Spire / East Temple Peak. 16. Evening light on the Southern Wall of Haystack as seen from the head of the valley looking across Deep Lake. The Cirque of the Towers is in the distance on the left side of the photo. 17. A bit pinker. 18. Steeple and Lost Temple Spire / East Temple silouetted against the morning sky. 19. This photo was taken on an afternoon ramble up the valley a bit above Deep Lake. 20. This photo was taken on an evening ramble up to the basin below Temple Peak. A trail leads along the west side of Deep Lake and eventually goes to Temple Pass, to the left of Temple Peak in the photo. There are some climbing routes on Temple, but they are not (yet) as popular as the climbs closer to Deep Lake. |