Aug 29 - Climb Minor Dihedral on Haystack Mountain.
Minor Dihedral is one of the most popular climbs outside the Cirque. This climb is wonderfully consistent in both quality and difficulty and follows clean cracks and corners, including a long pitch up one of two huge dihedrals on the mountain.
Route Overlay
(Pitches in this trip report as per Bechtel guide. It has become standard for climbers to begin the route at the start of the original fourth pitch by traversing in from the high grass on the right; like the Bechtel guide, I will call Pitch 1 the pitch that starts from this high traverse, i.e., the original fourth pitch of the route.)
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
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Photos:
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Photo descriptions:
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Approach
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Standard start: scramble to high grass right of the start of the original 4th pitch and make an easy slab traverse.
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1.
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1. Approaching Haystack from the Deep Lake direction. (Many parties who climb Haystack just camp at Clear Lake or low on the slabs between the lake, so in this case the approach would be more from below than above.) |
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Pitch
1
(Pitch 4 of original route...)
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5.9
(crux pitch)
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2.
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2. Climbers on Pitch 1 (John and Karl from Casper, WY, who also climbed alongside us the next day). This pitch ascends a 130-foot right-facing corner, whose crux is an 8-foot discontinuity passed by delicate footwork. In the photo Karl is at the crux of the route. I was able to get in a bomber cam (I think it was the metolius equivalent of a #1 BD) about a body-length below the crux, and a marginal black alien just a bit higher than this. The distance above the last piece of gear makes this crux both a mental and technical crux. |
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Pitch
2
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5.8
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3.
4.
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3. The easy slab traverse at the beginning of Pitch 2.
4. The left-sloping ramp of the second half of Pitch 2. I think Jeff is belaying a bit below the standard end of this pitch, which according to route descriptions is a "big ledge above a short overhanging corner" (see Photo 5 below). |
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Pitch
3
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5.6
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5. |
5. The third pitch starts with a tricky slabby traverse right into a scoop. In this photo, the climber is in the scoop. According to the Kelsey topo, the standard belay would be at the ledge to the left of the scoop, which makes the traverse slightly down and right from the belay. But it is also possible the belay might be lower and that the traverse is more up and right. The traverse seemed harder than 5.6, partly because the leader faces a swing back into the corner. It is possible to set a cam high after the traverse to prevent the follower from facing too large of a swing. After the tricky traverse to the scoop, the pitch finishes easily up broken rock. |
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Pitch
4
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5.8
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6.
7.
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6. This pitch starts off my ascending a left-facing corner to a ceiling.
7. Above the ceiling is a nice crack to a ledge below the upper dihedral. |
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Pitch
5
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5.9
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8.
9.
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8. This is the money pitch of the route, ascending the large dihedral. It is a long pitch, about 180-200 feet depending on where you put the final belay (a couple of ledges to choose from).
9. Looking down while leading the dihedral pitch. |
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Pitch
6
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5.8
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10.
11.
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10. Continue up the crack and corner system.
11. Climbing near the top of the pitch. |
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Pitch
7
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"4th"
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12.
13.
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12. We decided to unrope at the top of Pitch 6, since from here it is apparently 4th class. Clear Lake below.
13. Some moves seemed more like low-5th to me, even though the route description says "4th". I would say most parties would want to stay roped up for at least 100 feet after the end of Pitch 6. |
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Pitch
8
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4th |
14.
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14. It becomes more standard 4th class closer to the top. Most parties would be okay unroping here. |
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Summit
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15.
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15. Jeff on a subsummit of Haystack, looking towards the Cirque of the Towers in the distance. |
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Descent
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Grassy Goat Trail
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16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
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16. Starting down the Grassy Goat Trail. This is mostly 3rd class, with a couple of 4th class steps.
17. On one of the short 4th class steps.
18. Marmot guarding an (optional) rap station on the Grassy Goat Trail. Temple Peak behind.
19. That's one fat marmot, getting ready for the winter hibernation.
20. Zoomed in on the two distinct dihedrals on Haystack. The Major Dihedral route goes up the left dihedral and the Minor Dihedral route goes up the right dihedral. The dihedral pitch of either route is 5.9 climbing.
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