Dates: August 24&27, 2025 (Sun&Wed)
Partner: toprope solo (The Main Line, Aug 24), Brett Wines (Aug 24&27)
Climbed at: Pine Creek Canyon: Tai Tower, Pratt's Crack Gully
Routes (ordered by grade):
• The Main Line 5.10b, 10p, 1200', toprope solo
• Pratt's Crack 5.9, trad
• Oktoberfest 5.10b, trad
• Gala Tumble 5.10c, sport
• Subatomic 5.10c, sport
• Never Believe + Never Never Believe Extension 5.10c+5.10d, sport
• Twitch 5.11a, sport, toprope
• New Effigy 5.11b, sport, toprope
• Diety 5.11d, sport, toprope
• New World Order 5.12a, sport, toprope
• Aristotle 5.12b, sport, toprope
• Atomic Gecko 5.12c, sport, toprope
My climbing adventures of Summer of 2025 had taken me to the Eastern Sierra for a couple of weeks. My goal was some bigger objectives (like Chamberlin, the Hulk, Temple Crag, Whitney), but around those big objectives and on weather days, I squeezed in a few days of cragging at Pine Creek Canyon.
On the first day (August 24), I was meeting Brett for a pre-storm morning of cragging in Pine Creek. I’d heard about a 10-pitch route with fixed ropes—perfect for toprope soloing—called
The Main Line (5.10b, 10p, 1200') on Tai Tower. With fixed ropes in place and located just outside the entrance to Pine Creek Canyon only minutes from the parking lot, it seemed like the ideal warm-up.
I skipped morning coffee and set off early to climb it. Each pitch is about 35m with bolted belays. From the base to the top took me just under 54 minutes, plus a 6-minute approach and 16 minutes for the rappels. Car-to-car, it was about an hour and a half, which left me a comfortable half-hour before Brett showed up.
Below is an overlay with time stats and a few photos from my early morning toprope solo lap of
The Main Line.Note: I realize some may view this route as a ‘locals only’ secret, and I fully respect the value of keeping such things under wraps. However, since this route is included in the new guidebook and has a mountainproject page for the route mentioning the maintained fixed ropes, I feel it’s reasonable to share it here on my personal website.
My second day of cragging in Pine Creek on this trip was Wednesday, August 27, again with Brett. The forecast had called for “80% thundershowers” by noon, but the storm never came and we climbed into the mid-afternoon. I kicked off the day by leading the classic offwidth Pratt’s Crack (5.9)—finally putting to use the #6 and #7 cams that had been riding around in my car for months. From there, we both led the 35m 5.10d (Never Believe + Never Never Believe Extension--really good!), then toproped an adjacent 5.11d and 5.12a. Brett moved on to his 5.12c project, Scheelite Fight, while I toproped the 5.11b and 5.11a next to it. Brett crushed, nearly redpointing Scheelite Fight but slipping near the top on easier ground. Another productive day on the rock!