www.StephAbegg.com

Buzz Cut (~5.9, 4p, ~500′)

Practice Wall

Route:

Buzz Cut

~5.9, 4p, ~500'

Sustained 5.9 climbing up the obvious corner up the middle of Practice Wall.

Region: Colorado

Elev: 6,000-7,000 ft

Rock type: Gneiss

Type:

Date(s): May 17, 2020 (Sun)

Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Related trip reports:

Black Canyon of the Gunnison Main Page

Route Overlay

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Intro

Buzz Cut takes the obvious corner up the middle of Practice Wall. The climbing is quite good and for the most part sustained at a 5.9ish grade. It's a nice route for those looking for a half day climb in the 5.9 range, especially if you want to check out the Prisoner of the Hairdoo Gully in preparation for a longer climb of something like Lost Cities or Atlantis.

Nate and I climbed Buzz Cut as the third of three climbs during an enjoyable trip to the Black in May 2020. The other two climbs we did on this trip were The Odyssey and Cloaked Interpretation. The Black had a rather unique vibe to it on this trip, since the National Park had just re-opened to day use following a lengthy closure due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Park at Narrows View overlook, walk back down the road toward the ranger station about 5-10 minutes, then cut perpendicular off the road until you get to the entrance to Prisoner of Your Hairdoo Gully. Scramble down Prisoner of Your Hairdoo Gully for about 30 minutes to just before the fixed rappel. From there, cut upwards towards the base of Practice Wall. It is tempting perhaps to cut over towards Practice Wall higher up, but this will result in more bushwhacking.

Pitch 1

~5.7, 100'

Head up the corner.

Pitch 2

~5.9, 100'

Continue up the corner. We started this pitch by moving out left but it seems it might be possible to climb a handcrack through a roof to the right. The handcrack to the right is probably the 5.10 way to do it.

Pitch 3

~5.9, 150'

Continue up the corner. There might be variations off right in the 5.10 range.

Pitch 4

~5.8, 150'

Continue up the corner to the top of Practice Wall.

Top out

From the top of Practice Wall, head right and find a 3rd class weakness through the upper cliff to the canyon rim. Hike to the North Vista Road near Narrows Overlook.